Everything You Need to Know Before and After Getting a Perm

Should You Wash Your Hair Before Getting a Perm?

Getting a perm can give your hair extra volume and bounce. But before getting a perm at the salon, many people wonder if they should wash their hair first. There are good reasons to wash your hair beforehand. However, there are also some reasons why your stylist may ask you to come in with dirty hair.

Reasons to Wash Your Hair Before a Perm

Here are some of the benefits of washing your hair before getting a perm:

Removes dirt, oil, and product buildup - Washing removes any dirt, grease, hair products, or other debris that has accumulated on the scalp and hair. This allows the perm solution to penetrate the hair shaft better.
Avoids chemical reactions - Substances on dirty hair can potentially react with perm chemicals and affect the result. Washing the hair prevents any unexpected chemical interactions.
Helps perm take better - Perms work by reshaping the hair strand. Washing hair first allows the hair to be in its natural state so the new shape takes better.
Prevents damage - Greasy, dirty hair is more prone to damage from perm chemicals. Washing helps protect the hair.
Good for scalp health - Buildup, sweat, and oils on the scalp can block follicles and cause irritation. Washing helps keep the scalp clean and healthy.

Washing your hair the day of the perm removes any residue and creates the ideal clean slate for perm chemicals to work with. Many stylists recommend shampooing your hair before getting a perm for best results.

Reasons Stylists May Ask You Not to Wash Hair Beforehand

While washing your hair prior to perming does have benefits, there are a few reasons why a stylist may specifically ask you to come in with unwashed hair:

Porosity testing - To determine the proper strength and timing of the perm solution, stylists need to test your hair's porosity. Natural oils make this testing more accurate.
Hair is too fine or damaged - Fine or damaged hair can be overwhelmed by shampooing and become too delicate for perming. The natural oils help protect it.
Avoid over-processing - Washing hair too soon before perming can dry out the strands and cause too much chemical processing at once.
Previous treatments - Some salon treatments like straightening or coloring require unwashed hair for the perm to take correctly.
Hair is too short - Very short hair may not take well to washing right before perming. The natural oils help the chemicals penetrate.

In these situations, the stylist will ask you to come in with your hair in its natural state, even if it's a little dirty. This helps them determine the optimal perm strength and technique.

When to Wash Your Hair Beforehand

As a general rule, it's best to wash your hair within 24 hours before getting a perm. Here are some tips on timing:

The night before - Washing the evening before your perm appointment is ideal. This gives your scalp and strands time to recover their natural oil balance overnight.
Same morning - Washing your hair the same morning of the perm should be OK, as long as you allow enough time for drying. Towel drying rather than heat drying will avoid over-drying.
2-3 days before - Washing 2-3 days prior gives hair time to normalize before perming. But if you have oily hair, you may want to wash again right before.
More than 3 days - Waiting longer than 3 days means your hair may be too dirty for perm chemicals to work effectively. Try washing again right before the perm.

Discuss a washing timeline with your stylist so your hair will be in the ideal state when you come in for the appointment.

How to Wash Your Hair Beforehand

Here are some tips for washing your hair properly before getting it permed:

Use a clarifying shampoo - Clarifying shampoo removes residue without stripping natural oils. It prepares hair optimally for perming chemicals.
Rinse thoroughly - Make sure to rinse out all shampoo residue. Leftover suds can interfere with perm solution.
Avoid conditioner - Conditioner can make it harder for perming chemicals to penetrate the hair shaft and take properly.
Blot dry - Gently blot hair with a towel to soak up excess moisture. Avoid vigorous rubbing which can cause frizz.
Air dry - Let your hair air dry naturally. Allow 2-3 hours minimum so hair is completely dry before perming.
No styling products - Avoid gels, sprays, or other styling products. These can coat the hair and make it harder for the perm to take.

When washing your hair before a perm, be as gentle as possible. Over-washing can dry out your hair too much. Focus on thoroughly cleansing the hair and scalp without stripping away natural oils.

What About Conditioner Before a Perm?

Should you use conditioner when washing your hair before a perm? Here are some things to consider:

Most stylists recommend avoiding conditioner pre-perm. The coating it leaves can prevent perm solution from penetrating properly.
However, if you have extremely dry or damaged hair, ask your stylist if a light conditioner would be alright. Avoid anything too thick or oily.
Conditioner is fine if washing your hair 2-3+ days before perming. Just don't use any right before the perm appointment.
Always follow your stylist's instructions. They know your hair type best and will guide you on conditioner use.

Conditioner does help hydrate and protect hair. But when used immediately pre-perm, it can inadvertently create a barrier. Play it safe by skipping conditioner unless your stylist gives the OK.

Things to Avoid Before Perming Hair

In addition to conditioning, here are some other things experts recommend avoiding before a perm:

Swimming - Chlorine from pools can alter hair chemistry and affect perm results. Avoid swimming for 1-2 days beforehand.
Heat styling - Heat tools dry out the hair, making it more prone to perm damage. Avoid hot irons, blow drying, etc. for at least 24 hours pre-perm.
Harsh chemicals - Relaxers, dyes, and other chemical treatments can interact poorly with perm solution. Talk to your stylist before using any chemical hair products prior to your perm.
Brushing wet hair - Wet hair is weakest and most prone to breakage. Avoid vigorous brushing for 24 hours before perming.
Tight hairstyles - Ponytails, buns, and braids can stress and stretch out the hair cuticle. Wear hair loose the day before and of the perm.

Being mindful of how you care for your hair in the days leading up to the perm will help ensure you get the best results.

Perming Damaged or Over-Processed Hair

Getting a perm requires using strong chemicals to rearrange the inner structure of the hair. This makes hair more prone to damage, especially if it's already been chemically treated. Here's what you need to know about perming damaged or over-processed hair:

Risks of Perming Damaged Hair

Damaged and over-processed hair is weaker, more porous, and has less integrity than healthy hair. Perms involve strong chemicals that open the cuticle and break bonds to reshape the hair strand. This puts further stress on hair that's already compromised. Potential risks include:

Breakage - Weak, damaged areas can snap off under the chemical processing of a perm.
Overprocessing - Previous chemical treatments mean hair can process too quickly and become brittle.
Uneven results - Porous, damaged sections absorb chemicals differently leading to irregular results.
Lack of curl - Weak hair with gaps in disulfide bonds may struggle to hold a new shape.
Fragility - Existing damage plus new chemical stress leaves hair extremely fragile and prone to further breakage.

To avoid making damage worse, it's crucial to take extra precautions when perming hair that's already been through the ringer.

Tips for Perming Damaged Hair

Here are some tips stylists recommend when perming previously damaged or over-processed hair:

Use a mild perm formulation - Ammonium thioglycolate perms tend to be gentler than traditional alkaline perms.
Under-process hair - Leave perm solution on for less time than normal to avoid over-processing.
Use low pH neutralizer - Rinse with cool water and use an acidic neutralizer to close cuticles.
Apply a deep conditioner - Hydrate and strengthen hair with an intensive mask after rinsing.
Avoid wrapping too tightly - Tight perm rods put more stress on delicate strands.
Air dry gently - Avoid heat styling to limit further damage to fragile hair.
Wait longer between perms - Give hair extra time to recover before perming again.

Being cautious with the perm process and nurturing hair after can help minimize any additional damage to fragile strands.

When to Avoid Perming Damaged Hair

In some cases, severely damaged hair may be too weak and porous to withstand perm chemicals without significant breakage. It's best to avoid perming hair that is:

Breaking off rapidly
Known to be very porous
Contains a lot of split ends
Has been permed multiple times recently
Was just colored or relaxed
Feels gummy or stretches when wet

Hair in very poor condition lacks the internal bonds needed to hold a perm. Talk to your stylist honestly about the state of your hair. They can assess whether perming is viable or will only cause more harm.

Aftercare Tips for Permed Hair

Getting that fabulous permed style is just the first step. Proper aftercare is crucial for keeping permed hair looking beautiful and healthy. Here are some top tips for caring for your perm:

The First 48 Hours

How you treat permed hair in the initial 48 hours can help determine how long your perm lasts. Be especially gentle and avoid anything that could cause reversion:

No washing - Wait at least 48 hours before shampooing to allow bonds to set.
No heat styling - Avoid hot tools as heat can quickly loosen perm bonds.
No ponytails - Pulling hair tight can cause your perm to relax and loosen up.
No helmets - Wearing anything tight-fitting can flatten and deform curls.
Sleep loose - Pineapple or loose braids are better than tight buns or rollers.
No hairspray - Most hold products contain alcohol which can disrupt perm bonds.

Giving permed hair time to normalize without disruption will help curls last longer.

Washing and Conditioning

Shampoo gently. Use sulfate-free shampoo and massage scalp lightly. Avoid matting curls when washing.
Rinse thoroughly. Make sure to rinse out all shampoo to prevent dryness and frizz.
Use moisturizing conditioner. Nourish and hydrate parched hair from the chemical processing.
Condition mid-lengths to ends. Only apply conditioner from ears down to avoid weighting down roots.
Rinse with cool water. Cool water helps close the cuticle and seal in moisture.

Proper cleansing and conditioning will help keep permed hair soft, shiny, and bouncy.

Drying and Styling

Blot dry gently. Rubbing can cause frizz and loosen curl pattern.
Air dry mostly. Allow hair to air dry until slightly damp before diffusing.
Diffuse on low. Use a diffuser on low speed and heat to finish drying hair.
Use alcohol-free products. Try curl creams, oils, or mousses to enhance curls.
No hot tools. Avoid blow dryers, curling irons, or flat irons as heat damages perm bonds.
Let curls reform. When wet, gently scrunch curls back into shape.

Drying and styling permed hair with care prevents excess frizz and maintains your fabulous new texture.

Other Aftercare Tips

Use a wide tooth comb only.
Sleep on a silk pillowcase.
Avoid chlorine and salt water.
Trim regularly to prevent splits.
Use a deep conditioner weekly.
Get occasional perm touch ups.
Take biotin supplements.
Be gentle brushing when wet.

Taking good care of your permed locks will help the style last longer and keep hair healthy and happy!

Common Perm Problems and How to Fix Them

While perms can give you beautiful lasting curls, sometimes things don't go as planned. Here are some common perm problems and tips for how to fix them: