What Can I Use Instead of Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid has become a popular skincare ingredient for treating several skin concerns like acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. However, not everyone can tolerate azelaic acid. Some experience irritation, redness, or drying from it. Others simply want an alternative for variety or cost purposes. Luckily, there are some effective options to use instead of azelaic acid.
Why Use Azelaic Acid?
First, let's look at why people use azelaic acid for their skin in the first place. This will help guide what ingredients to look for in alternatives.
Benefits of azelaic acid include:
- Reducing inflammation and redness
- Clearing acne by killing bacteria on the skin
- Exfoliating the skin and sloughing off dead cells
- Reducing pigmentation and evening out skin tone
- Calming rosacea flares
With these benefits in mind, an ideal alternative to azelaic acid would be something that also addresses inflammation, acne, texture, pigmentation, or rosacea.
Natural Alternatives to Azelaic Acid
For those looking for more natural options, here are some azelaic acid alternatives:
1. Niacinamide
Like azelaic acid, niacinamide (vitamin B3) has anti-inflammatory properties that help reduce redness and blotchiness. It also limits the transfer of pigment in the skin, limiting hyperpigmentation. Start with a 5% niacinamide serum or include the ingredient in your moisturizer.
2. Vitamin C
Vitamin C brightens the complexion and protects against UV damage that can cause discoloration. It also boosts collagen, improving skin texture. Use a daily vitamin C serum with at least 10-15% L-ascorbic acid.
3. Alpha Arbutin
Alpha arbutin is a natural derivative of the bearberry plant. It works to reduce melanin production, brightening the skin and fading pigment issues like melasma. Look for a 2% alpha arbutin serum or cream.
4. Licorice Extract
Licorice root extract contains glabridin, which helps minimize dark spots and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It has an anti-inflammatory effect as well. Use a serum with at least 5% licorice extract.
5. Green Tea
The polyphenols and EGCG in green tea are fantastic antioxidants that protect the skin from UV damage. Green tea also has an anti-inflammatory effect to reduce redness. Drink 1-2 cups of green tea daily or use green tea products topically.
Other Skincare Ingredient Alternatives
Along with natural options, these skincare ingredients also provide effects similar to azelaic acid:
1. Retinoids
Retinoids like retinol increase skin cell turnover to smooth texture, prevent acne, and even out tone. Start slowly with a 0.25-0.5% retinol and gradually increase strength to avoid irritation.
2. AHAs
Alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic and lactic acid exfoliate the skin to reduce pigmentation, improve acne, and give a glow. Use an AHA 1-2 times per week in concentrations of 5-10%.
3. PHAs
Polyhydroxy acids like gluconolactone offer gentler exfoliation. They help unclog pores, smooth texture, and promote an even complexion. Start with a 5% PHA serum or cleanser used 2-3 times a week.
4. Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol is a plant-based retinol alternative that stimulates collagen and cell turnover for firmer skin. It’s ideal for sensitive skin. Use a serum with 0.5-1% bakuchiol up to twice daily.
5. Niacinamide
Like mentioned previously, niacinamide is an excellent alternative for its anti-inflammatory benefits. It also balances oil and minimizes pores to prevent acne. Use a niacinamide serum daily.
6. Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that deeply cleans pores and has antibacterial properties to treat acne. Use a cleanser or leave-on treatment with 0.5-5% salicylic acid.
7. Sulfur
Sulfur has keratolytic properties to shed dead skin cells leading to a clearer complexion. It also reduces excess oil and kills p. acnes bacteria to fight acne. Look for a 2-5% sulfur mask or spot treatment.
8. Tranexamic Acid
This ingredient stabilizes skin proteins to reduce pigmentation and prevent new dark spots from forming. Use a 3-5% tranexamic acid serum a few times a week.
9. Arbutin
Arbutin inhibits melanin synthesis in the skin to treat hyperpigmentation issues. Look for a concentrated serum with 2-5% arbutin.
10. Kojic Acid
Kojic acid prevents melanin production in the skin to fade dark spots and discoloration. Use 1-2 times per week initially as it can be irritating. Look for a 1-3% concentration level.
Lifestyle Changes
Topical skincare alternatives are great, but also consider lifestyle changes to treat skin concerns like:
- Taking an oral supplement with antioxidants
- Eating more fruits and vegetables
- Exercising regularly to improve circulation
- Practicing stress-relieving activities like yoga, meditation, or breathwork
- Getting 7-9 hours of quality sleep per night
- Quitting smoking to reduce skin inflammation
How to Choose the Best Azelaic Acid Alternative
With many potential alternatives to azelaic acid, how do you choose? Here are some tips:
- Consider your specific skin concerns and needs
- Select options that can address those concerns
- Look for evidence-based ingredients supported by research
- Spot test new products first to check for irritation or allergic reactions
- Introduce alternatives slowly into your routine
- Be patient, as it can take weeks or months to see results
- Use a broad spectrum sunscreen daily as many ingredients increase sun sensitivity
Consult a dermatologist or esthetician if you need help creating a personalized regimen with azelaic acid alternatives suited for your skin type.
The Bottom Line
Azelaic acid is a multi-tasking skincare ingredient that treats acne, rosacea, texture, and hyperpigmentation concerns. But it doesn’t work for everyone. Alternative options like vitamin C, niacinamide, retinoids, AHAs, and antioxidants can provide similar benefits. Always patch test new products before trying them. And be patient, as it can take time to see results.
FAQs
Is azelaic acid safe for sensitive skin?
Azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated, even by those with sensitive skin. However, it can cause irritation, redness, dryness or flaking in some people. Doing a patch test first is recommended.
What's the difference between azelaic acid and salicylic acid?
Azelaic acid works to exfoliate skin, fight acne, and reduce hyperpigmentation. Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that exfoliates inside pores to prevent and treat acne. It does not treat pigmentation issues.
Can I use azelaic acid while pregnant?
Topical azelaic acid is considered safe to use during pregnancy, but always check with your doctor first. Oral azelaic acid should not be used during pregnancy.
Does azelaic acid cause purging?
It's possible when starting azelaic acid. The increase in cell turnover can bring clogged pores and acne to the surface temporarily before improving skin. This purge period typically lasts 2-6 weeks.
Can I use azelaic acid with retinol or benzoyl peroxide?
Yes, azelaic acid can be combined with retinol or benzoyl peroxide in a skincare routine. However, it's best to use them at alternating times of day to avoid excess irritation and dryness.
Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new treatment regimen.
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