A Brief History and Safe Use of Hair Dye

The Evolution of Hair Dye

For centuries, people have sought to change the color of their hair, concealing grays or expressing individual style. Modern hair dyes seem ubiquitousoffering endless variations from subtle to shocking. But how safe are these popular chemical concoctions when regularly applied?

A Brief History

Hair dye dates back to ancient Egypt, where both men and women tinted hair with henna and other natural ingredients. Greeks and Romans lightened hair using pungent dyes made of harsh chemicals like arsenic or quicklime.

In 1907, French chemist Eugene Schuller created the first safe commercial hair dye, called Aurole. This synthetic product temporarily coated the hair shaft to add color. But his most long-lasting contribution was discovering that mixing colorless dye intermediates created a chemical reaction coloring hair.

This oxidative reaction, still used in most dyes today, works by having small dye molecules penetrate into the hair shaft where they link together to form larger colored compounds. Ammonia acts as the developer, opening and swelling the cuticle so dye can fully saturate the hair.

The Rise of DIY Dye

Initially, getting your hair colored required a salon visit. But in the 1950s, Toni Home Permanent launched at-home dye kits, freeing women to easily color their own hair. Clairol soon created an entire consumer division around the burgeoning home hair color market.

Today the DIY hair color industry rakes in over $15 billion annually. Drug stores offer endless shade options from permanent to semi-permanent to temporary coloring. About 75% of women and an increasing number of men admit to dyeing their hair.

How Hair Dye Works

Transforming your tresses requires more than just sloshing color on your head. The process uses a careful cocktail of chemicals that must remain balanced to avoid hair or skin damage during dyingand later on.

The Chemistry Inside

Most over-the-counter dyes contain the same basic ingredients:

• Ammonia - Opens cuticle layer so dye can penetrate
• Peroxide - Lightens hair so color will deposit better
• pPD - Primary color pigment called paraphenylenediamine
• Couplers - Secondary pigments altering pPD shades
• Alcohol - Stabilizes color mixture

Ammonia and peroxide act as developers while pPD and couplers create dye pigments. Mixing these chemicals kicks off an oxidation reaction depositing color inside the hair shaft itself.

Permanent vs Semi-Permanent Dye

With permanent hair color, the oxidative dye process remains in the strand until growing out or cut off. This lasts through multiple shampoos until the colored portion sheds naturally.

Semi-permanent dye coats the outside of hair with color that washes out over 4-8 careful shampoos. No developer mixes in, so no chemical reaction takes place. This makes it less damaging but color payoff weaker.

Is Coloring Hair Safe?

With millions regularly dying their hair, how risky is this beauty practice? Evidence points to some Reasons for caution.

Skin Irritation and Allergy

Topping the list of risks lies skin irritation and allergic reaction. The palms and eyelids absorb chemicals most readily, so gloves and care not to rub eyes are essential.

About 2% of people demonstrate pPD allergy with symptoms like rash, scaly skin, swelling and shortness of breath. However, sensitization increases with repeated exposure. Reactions peak at 6-10 days post-dyeing.

Hair Damage

Hair fibers readily suffer damage from continuous dyeing. Over time, the cuticle breaks down and cortex weakens from chemical penetration. This causes:

• Dry, coarse texture
• Increased split ends
• Fragile strands prone to breakage
• Breakage leading to thinning

While semi-permanent colors only coat the cuticle, oxidation of permanent dye happens inside the cortex itself. Repeated lightening also degrades hair integrity.

Cancer Concerns Emerge

Little evidence conclusively ties hair dye itself to cancer despite early animal studies raising alarm. Instead, newer research identifies risk factors boosting odds like:

• Constant use for 15+ years
• Darker dye shades
• Genetic predispositions
• Frequent burning or rash reaction

Analyzing multitudes of users helps quantify tiny added risk. But minimizing exposure still smart until more definitive research available.

Tips for Safe DIY Dyeing

Exercising caution with home hair color lets you safely enhance your look. Follow these best practices:

Know the Numbers

Learning how to decode box color information prevents surprises. Key facts to note:

• Level = Lightness scale from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest)
• Tone = Hues like neutral, golden, ash, etc.
• Volume = Developer strength from 10 to 40

Understand your starting level and desired result. Then pick appropriate tone and volume developer.

Strand Test First

Before applying dye everywhere, do a stand test:

1. Clip a small section of hair near face framing
2. Follow box to mix and apply dye to that section
3. Time full development process
4. Rinse, dry and evaluate color result

If you like the color, proceed. If not, try a lighter shade. This prevents being stuck with a hue you hate!

Protect Skin and Eyes

Prevent skin irritation by:

• Wearing gloves while applying
• Keeping dye off skin with petroleum jelly or barrier cream
• Washing skin post-dye with soapy water
• Rinsing dye toward back of head to avoid forehead
• Not rubbing eyes and immediately rinsing if dye gets inside

Spot test dye first to check for any rash or discomfort indications.

Healthy Habits for Dyed Hair

Once you commit to coloring your hair, maintaining health and vibrancy requires diligent care between salon visits. Here are key ways to minimize damage of dyed hair:

Shampoo Less Frequently

Cleansing less often preserves hair color better. Shampooing too frequently strips color molecules out faster. Strive for every 2-3 days instead of daily to make hues last.

Also use sulfate-free shampoo to be extra gentle. Or switch to a cleansing conditioner for ultra moisture.

Use Deep Conditioner Treatments

Penetrating moisture into damaged areas makes hair look shinier, feel softer and enhances light reflection. For best results:

• Apply conditioner liberally from roots to ends
• Massage gently with fingers for 2-3 minutes leave on for 5+ minutes
• Rinse thoroughly in cool water to seal
• Repeat 1-2 times per week focusing on dry areas

Protect From Heat Styling

Air drying allows dyed hair to recover structurally, so skip blow drying when possible. If using hot tools, always prep strands first with a thermal protectant. This seals the cuticle against intense heat from the iron or dryer.

Also adjust temperature settings downward if appropriate for your hair type to prevent sizzling. And avoid overusing hot tools to give hair a rest.

Newer and Natural Options

Growing consumer health and safety concerns spawn better dye alternatives promising fewer chemicals and ingredients sourced closer to nature.

Botanical-Based Permanent Colors

Some newer permanent dyes reduce levels of PPD and ammonia by adding gentler chemical analogs like:

• Monoethanolamine (MEA)
• Aminomethyl propanol (AMP)
• Ethanolamine (MEA)

These alternative alkalizers and couplers aim to be less irritating while maintaining gray coverage and color duration.

Semi-Permanent Colors from Plants

Those wanting completely natural ingredient dyes can utilize plant-based semi-permanent options. Many contain gentle, hair-nourishing elements like:

• Henna (red shades)
• Indigo (browns/black)
• Cassia (golden hues)
• Cocoa powder (rich browns)
• Beetroot (vibrant red)

While colors appear more subtle, increased scalp and hair health makes the trade-off worthwhile for many.

How to Care for Colored Hair

Once you commit to regularly dyeing your hair, be sure to adjust hair care routines to pamper those chemically-treated tresses. Here are key ways to keep your color vibrant and hair healthy between appointments:

• Shampoo less frequently to retain color
• Use hydrating masks and treatments
• Rinse with cool water and air dry when possible
• Protect from heat styling damage
• Get occasional deep conditioning salon treatments

With knowledgeable, consistent care, you can safely enhance your hair color without excess drying or breakage.

Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new treatment regimen.