Should You Apply Azelaic Acid Before or After Serum?

Understanding Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid that is produced by a yeast that lives on normal skin. In skincare, synthetically produced azelaic acid is used in topical treatments mainly for its ability to tackle two common skin concerns - acne and rosacea.

Unlike other anti-acne ingredients like benzoyl peroxide and retinoids, azelaic acid has the added benefit of being able to reduce some of the post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation caused by acne breakouts. Its anti-inflammatory effects also make it useful for reducing the redness associated with rosacea.

How Azelaic Acid Works

Azelaic acid works in several ways to treat acne and rosacea:

• It is antimicrobial - it stops the growth of acne-causing bacteria on the skin
• It reduces inflammation
• It helps prevent skin cells from accumulating and clogging pores
• It decreases melanin production, helping fade post-acne marks and discoloration

Using Azelaic Acid with Other Actives

With its multi-pronged mechanism of action against several skin concerns, azelaic acid is now being combined with other popular skincare actives to boost their efficacy.

Azelaic Acid and Retinoids

Retinoids increase skin cell turnover and are first-line, gold-standard treatment for acne. Research shows that using azelaic acid with retinoids can have an additive effect on acne, resulting in better clearance of breakouts than using either active alone.

Azelaic Acid and Vitamin C

Vitamin C is used to brighten the complexion and reduce the appearance of dark spots. Data suggests that azelaic acid boosts the efficacy of topical vitamin C serums because it accelerates cell turnover and helps vitamin C penetrate better.

Azelaic Acid and AHAs

AHAs like glycolic acid and lactic acid exfoliate the surface of the skin to keep pores clear. Azelaic acid and AHAs are a good combination because AHAs remove the buildup of dead skin cells while azelaic acid tackles active breakouts.

Should You Use Azelaic Acid Before or After Serum?

Now that you know how well azelaic acid complements other key skincare ingredients like retinoids, vitamin C and AHAs, how should you use azelaic acid with your other leave-on serums?

Applying Azelaic Acid Before Serum

Using azelaic acid before your serum allows it to penetrate deeper into your skin first while creating the ideal environment for your next products to work better.

For example, azelaic acid is good to apply before vitamin C because it enhances penetration. It accelerates cell turnover so newer skin cells can receive the brightening benefits of vitamin C.

The Case for Applying Serum Before Azelaic Acid

However, there may be some scenarios where you want to apply your serum before azelaic acid:

• If you are using a lower concentration azelaic acid product and want the benefits of your stronger serum first
• If you are mainly targeting hyperpigmentation and want maximum brightening from vitamin C before using azelaic primarily for its anti-acne properties

Tips for Layering Azelaic Acid and Serums

Here are some best practices for layering azelaic acid with other serums:

• Use lower concentrations (10-15%) to start if new to azelaic acid to minimize risk of irritation
• Wait 2-3 minutes between applications of products to allow some absorption
• Applywater-based serums and treatments first, before oil-based products
• Use a maximum of 2-3 leave-on actives in one routine for good tolerability

Putting it All Together - Sample Routines with Azelaic Acid

Keeping the above guidance in mind, here are examples of how you may incorporate azelaic acid if you are trying to address:

Acne and Acne Marks

AM

• Cleanser
• Azelaic Acid 15%
• Vitamin C Serum
• Moisturizer
• Sunscreen

PM

• Cleanser
• Retinoid
• Azelaic Acid 15%
• Niacinamide Serum
• Moisturizer

Rosacea and Redness

AM

• Gentle Cleanser
• Azelaic Acid 15%
• Hydrating Serum
• Moisturizer with SPF

PM

• Gentle Cleanser
• Azelaic Acid 15%
• Hydrating Serum
• Rich Moisturizer

Using azelaic acid both morning and evening takes advantage of its dual ability to tackle rosacea symptoms and prevent clogged pores and acne.

The Takeaway

With evidence demonstrating azelaic acid's synergistic effects with ingredients like retinoids, vitamin C and AHAs, it is worth incorporating into your regimen for clearer, brighter skin. Consider using it immediately before or after water-based serums taking into account your own skin goals and tolerance. Supporting your azelaic acid product with adequate hydration and sun protection will help maximize results.

Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new treatment regimen.