Proper Order to Cleanse or Exfoliate Skin for Best Results

The Importance of Exfoliation for Healthy, Glowing Skin

A good skin care regimen goes beyond just cleaning your face. It involves properly removing dead skin cells and revealing fresh new skin underneath. This process called exfoliation is a crucial step that should not be skipped. But a common question many people have is whether you should be cleansing or exfoliating first to reap the maximum skincare benefits.

What is Exfoliation?

Exfoliation is the process of mechanically or chemically removing dead skin cells, oils, and debris that build up on the outermost surface of our skin. As we age, the natural cell turnover rate of our skin slows down. Exfoliation helps accelerate skin cell turnover to reveal the newer, healthier cells underneath.

This whole skin cell regeneration process typically takes around 28 to 45 days on average. So exfoliating a few times a week helps remove the older dead cells at a faster rate so your skin looks more youthful and radiant.

Benefits of Exfoliating Your Skin

Some benefits of consistently exfoliating include:

• Revealing brighter, smoother skin - Removing dead cells promotes new cell growth
• Reducing appearance of fine lines and wrinkles - Increases collagen production
• Clearing up clogged pores and acne - Prevents oil and dirt buildup
• Allowing better absorption of skin care products - Creates path for serums to penetrate deeper
• Improving tone and texture - Levels out rough patches for more even complexion

Types of Exfoliants

The two main types are physical/mechanical exfoliants and chemical exfoliants:

Physical or Mechanical Exfoliants

These manually remove dead skin using small grains, beads, sugar, or abrasive surfaces. Common examples include scrubs, brushes, washcloths, microdermabrasion treatments, etc.

Chemical Exfoliants

These use acids and enzymes to dissolve the "glue" holding dead cells to the surface. This allows them to slough off easily. Some acids used include alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), etc.

Should You Cleanse or Exfoliate First?

This debate comes down to getting the most out of whichever exfoliation method you choose. Our skin's surface has oils, dirts, pollutants, and dead cells all meshed together. Attempting to exfoliate without removing some of the surface grime first may result in dead skin cells staying trapped.

However, many chemical exfoliants in leave-on toners work best when applied to skin that hasn't been stripped of all its natural oils yet. So the optimal order differs based on exfoliant type:

Cleansing First for Physical Exfoliants

For manual scrubs with granular ingredients that you will rinse off, cleansing first is preferred. Washing with a gentle cleanser lifts away oils, sweat, dirts, makeup and sunscreens. This allows the scrub particles to slough off the dead cells easier.

If you scrub without cleansing first, you waste effort trying to break through the surface layer grime to get to the dead skin underneath. The scrub ingredients also won't glide as smoothly if the skin is more tacky.

Exfoliating First for Chemical Exfoliation

However, leave-on liquid exfoliating toners with alpha and beta hydroxy acids work best when applied before cleansing. These chemical exfoliants need a little oil and moisture left on the skin to help the ingredients absorb optimally and work efficiently.

Washing skin first strips away too much of the skin's acid mantle before applying the acids. Cleansing skin right after chemical exfoliation is fine however to remove any residue.

How to Properly Exfoliate Your Face

Once you know when to add exfoliation to your routine, follow some basic do's and don'ts for safe, effective exfoliating:

Do's of Face Exfoliation

• Cleanse before using physical/mechanical exfoliants
• Apply chemical/acid exfoliants to dry skin unless directions state otherwise
• Gently massage scrubs using light circular motions with fingertips
• Start slowly if new to exfoliating, 1-2 times a week
• Apply a hydrating moisturizer afterward
• Always do a patch test if using a new product first

Don'ts of Exfoliating

• Don't scrub too aggressively or irritate skin
• Avoid rubbing harsh scrubs directly on sensitive areas near eyes/mouth
• Don't use too frequently, over-exfoliating leads to redness
• Don't forget SPF protection after making skin more vulnerable

Finding the right balance takes some trial and error. Notice how your skin looks and feels to determine ideal exfoliating frequency for your unique skin type.

Signs It's Time to Exfoliate

Pay attention as your skin gives clues when it’s ready for some exfoliation TLC. Some signals include:

• Dull, lackluster complexion
• Flaky patches or texture feels rough
• Skin appears dry; moisturizer isn't absorbing well
• Clogged pores or congested skin prone to breakouts
• Fine lines and wrinkles become more noticeable

Incorporating the proper cleansing and exfoliation order into your skincare routine helps keep your complexion looking its best year-round.

Adapt as needed based on season, climate and skin type. Harsher winter weather may require more regular exfoliation, while too frequent exfoliating in summer could compromise the moisture barrier.

Ingredients to Look For

Those newer to exfoliating may want to gradually introduce gentle exfoliants like:

• Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs)
• Betaine salicylate
• Extracts like papaya, pineapple, pumpkin, etc
• Soft jojoba beads
• Finely ground nut shells or sugars

Sensitive skin prone to irritation should stick to gentler physical exfoliants a few times a week or chemical exfoliant toners with PHAs or betaine salicylate used once daily.

Those with heartier skin have a wider range of exfoliating ingredients to explore like glycolic, lactic and salicylic acids, enzymes, as well as bolder scrubs with coarser particles.

How to Avoid Over-Exfoliating

It is possible to overdo exfoliation, so exercising some caution is advised when getting carried away with all the supposed benefits. Too much exfoliating strips away not only dead skin cells, but some of the healthy cells too.

This destroys skin's moisture barrier leading to redness, irritation, dry patches, increased sensitivity, etc. Some signs you may be overdoing exfoliation include:

• Raw, inflamed skin
• Intense stinging or burning sensation upon application
• Visible peeling, flaking, scabbing
• Little red bumps or skin suddenly feels itchy
• Increased breakouts or acne

If your face feels raw, looks irritated or sensitive after exfoliating, take a break for a few days. Stick to very simple cleanser and moisturizers only until skin rebalances itself before attempting exfoliation again.

Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new treatment regimen.