Safely Dyeing Hair When You Have a Sensitive Scalp

Choosing the Best Professional Hair Dye for Sensitive Scalps

Dyeing your hair can be tricky when you have a sensitive scalp condition like psoriasis. Certain chemicals in hair color can irritate the scalp and trigger flares. However, with the right precautions and product selection, you can safely color treat your hair without scalp irritation.

Understand the Causes of Hair Dye Irritation

Most issues caused by hair dye stem from the ammonia and paraphenylenediamine (PPD) used to open and penetrate the hair cuticle. This allows the color to deposit and adhere within the hair shaft. However, these chemicals can be harsh on sensitive skin.

Ammonia – This is added to help swell and lift open the outer hair cuticle. Ammonia has a high pH level that can disrupt the scalp’s protective acid mantle. This can worsen scalp inflammation and provoke psoriasis flares. The higher the ammonia content, the more damaging it typically is to sensitive skin.

PPD – This chemical found in most permanent and demi-permanent hair dyes assists with penetrating and coloring the hair. However, PPD is one of the most common hair dye allergens. Contact dermatitis reactions are frequent. PPD may also exacerbate skin inflammation.

Other ingredients like propylene glycol, sodium lauryl sulfate, and alcohol can also irritate sensitive scalps. Understanding which chemicals pose a hazard is key to avoiding them.

Signs of Hair Dye Irritation

Watch for these symptoms that may indicate a reaction to products used:

• Redness, itching, stinging, or burning on the scalp
• Bumps, scales, oozing, or swelling around hair follicles
• Spreading rash on scalp, forehead, neck, or ears
• Scabbing, crusting, dryness, or cracking on the scalp
• Hair loss in reaction site patches
• Dandruff-like flakes or oily scales on scalp
• Headaches, dizziness, nausea, or wheezing

Severe reactions may require medical treatment. Immediately wash out the dye and avoid further exposure to the product. Watch for any ingredients that seem to repeatedly cause problems.

Patch Test Any New Hair Dye

Before applying a hair color you’ve never used before, do a patch test. Mix a small amount of the dye as directed and apply it to a covered area of skin such as inside your elbow. Wash thoroughly after 48 hours. If no reaction occurs, it should be safe to proceed.

Select Safer Hair Dye Options

The most gentle and non-irritating choices include:

• Natural Henna Dye – Derived from a plant, this provides temporary color staining of the hair cuticle. No chemicals added.
• Semi-Permanent Dye – Contains low levels of PPD. Color washes out over 4-8 weeks.
• Demi-Permanent Dye – Has some PPD. Color fades out slowly over 4-12 weeks.
• PPD-Free Permanent Dye – Uses alternative gentler chemicals to color hair longer term.
• Bleach-Free Highlights – Foils limit contact with scalp. No bleach touching skin.

Check the PPD Concentration

PPD-containing dyes come in different concentrations. PPD of 2% or less is less likely to irritate than higher levels around 5%. Brands like Madison Reed offer options with lower concentrations of PPD.

Avoid Ammonia-Based Formulas

Ammonia-free hair dyes are ideal for sensitive scalps. These use a lower pH gentler chemical called monoethanolamine (MEA) to open the cuticle instead. MEA is less drying and abrasive compared to ammonia.

Minimize Dye Contact with Scalp

Carefully applying color only to hair strands not touching the scalp reduces skin irritation. Use a tint brush to precisely cover only hair. Wear gloves and rinse dye from skin promptly if contact occurs.

Professional Hair Dye Tips for Sensitive Scalps

Getting your hair professionally colored with a sensitive scalp comes with advantages. Hairdressers are skilled at keeping dyes off the skin. Here are tips for getting a salon dye job safely:

Do a Skin Patch Test

Before your appointment, ask to do a patch test of any new products. Many salons offer this upon request. Check for reactions before dyeing.

Select Ammonia-Free Colors

Ask your stylist to use ammonia-free permanent or demi-permanent colors. Brands like Goldwell, Pravana, and Olaplex offer gentler options.

Review Ingredients Together

Carefully go over all ingredients in dyes or lighteners. Avoid ones with any problematic chemicals you know irritate your skin.

Protect Sensitive Areas

Have your stylist use petroleum jelly on skin around the hairline, neck, and ears. This prevents dyes from accidentally touching sensitive areas.

Rinse Out Promptly

Don’t leave any dyes or lighteners on longer than required. Rinse thoroughly with cool water to get all traces off the scalp and skin.

Limit Dyeing Frequency

Wait at least 6-8 weeks between dye jobs. Frequent coloring dries out the scalp and damages hair over time.

Request Dye Alternatives

Consider semi-permanent dyes, vegetable dyes, highlights, lowlights, gloss treatments, or rinses as safer coloring options.

What to Do After Dyeing

Monitor for Reactions

Watch for symptoms like redness, itching, swelling, rashes, etc. This may indicate sensitivity to a product. Call your doctor if concerning reaction.

Treat Irritation Gently

Use cool water, anti-itch creams, cold compresses, hydrocortisone, etc. to ease any mild scalp irritation. Avoid scratching or irritating the area.

Moisturize Skin and Hair

Apply aloe vera, coconut oil, or thick moisturizer to soothe the scalp. Deep condition hair to prevent drying and breakage.

Protect Skin from Sun

Direct sun exposure can damage color-treated hair and aggravate scalp sensitivity. Wear a hat and use broad spectrum sunscreen on scalp.

Gently Wash Hair

Use a mild, fragrance-free shampoo for 2 weeks after dyeing. Wash every 2-3 days to avoid over-drying scalp.

Natural Ways to Cover Grays

If chemical dyes prove too irritating, some natural options can cover grays without dyeing:

• Rinses - Plant-based rinses coat hair to tone down grays between dyeing.
• Henna - Red henna stains coat hair and blend away grays safely.
• Root Concealers - Colored powders cling to grays and wash out later.
• Hair Mascaras - Temporary mascaras coat grays until shampooed out.
• Shampoos - Deposit pigments reduce the appearance of grays between dye jobs.
• Root Sprays - Aerosol sprays temporarily disguise new gray growth at roots.

When to See a Dermatologist

Consult a dermatologist if you experience:

• Severe reaction to hair dye with blistering, oozing, etc.
• Painful itching, swelling, or rashes lasting over 2 weeks
• Hair dye reactions that worsen over time
• New skin patch or lesion after dyeing hair

A dermatologist can test for allergies, assess hair products used, provide medical treatment for reactions, and offer guidance on safer hair dye options.

The Takeaway

Dyeing your hair is possible even with a sensitive scalp condition like psoriasis. Being selective about the products used and carefully applying dye can prevent irritation. Getting help from professionals experienced with sensitive scalps provides added reassurance of safely covering your grays.

Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new treatment regimen.