When to Exfoliate in Your Skin Care Routine
Exfoliation is an important step in any skin care routine. It removes dead skin cells, evens skin tone, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and allows other products like serums and moisturizers to better penetrate the skin. But when exactly should you exfoliate? Should it be before or after cleansing?
What is Exfoliation?
Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells that naturally build up on the skin's surface over time. As we age, the rate at which our skin regenerates itself slows down. Dead skin cells that are not properly exfoliated can cause the complexion to look dull and flaky.
There are two main types of exfoliators:
- Physical exfoliators: Use abrasive beads, grains, or a textured cloth to manually remove dead skin
- Chemical exfoliators: Exfoliate using acids that dissolve the "glue" holding dead skin to the surface
Benefits of Exfoliating
Regular exfoliation provides many benefits for the skin, including:
- Removes dull, dead skin for a brighter, more radiant complexion
- Minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- Clears clogged pores to prevent acne breakouts
- Allows other products to better absorb into the skin
- Smooths rough skin texture for an even, smooth look
Exfoliating Before vs After Cleansing
So should you exfoliate before or after cleansing your face? The short answer is: after.
Here's why exfoliating after cleansing is best practice for most skin types:
1. Avoid Spreading Dirt and Oil
Exfoliating removes dead skin cells and residue from the skin's surface. If you exfoliate before cleansing, you risk rubbing all of that debris back into your pores while removing your cleanser.
It's better to first wash away impurities with a gentle cleanser, then exfoliate so the dead skin can be removed without spreading around dirt and oil.
2. Prevent Skin Irritation
Some cleansers contain ingredients like surfactants that could potentially cause irritation when combined with the friction of exfoliation. Cleansing first helps remove any irritants.
Additionally, many exfoliators depend on fruit enzymes or chemical exfoliants that require a blank canvas to work most effectively. Starting with clean skin prevents unintended irritation.
3. Improve Product Efficacy
Think of dead skin cells like a layer of plastic wrap covering your face. Even the most luxurious serums can't penetrate through that barrier effectively.
Exfoliating after cleansing removes the "plastic wrap" layer so skincare products like vitamin C, retinol, and hyaluronic acid can better absorb where they're needed most.
How to Exfoliate Properly After Cleansing
Follow these simple steps to effectively exfoliate your skin after cleansing:
- Start with a fresh, clean face after cleansing as normal. Gently pat skin dry with a soft towel.
- Apply your chosen exfoliant and massage it into skin for 30-60 seconds using gentle, circular motions. Pay extra attention to congested areas.
- Rinse face thoroughly with lukewarm water to remove all residue.
- Follow up with the rest of your regular skincare routine like serums, moisturizers, SPF, etc.
- Exfoliate 1-3 times per week depending on your skin type and product instructions.
Choosing an Exfoliator
With so many scrubs and acids on the market, how do you pick the right exfoliator for your skin type?
For sensitive or dry skin: Opt for a very gentle scrub with soft jojoba beads, a konjac sponge, or a mild AHA/BHA acid 1-2 times per week.
For oily/combination skin: Use a Salicylic Acid (BHA) or Glycolic Acid (AHA) exfoliant 2-3 times per week to keep pores clear.
For normal/balanced skin: An exfoliating cleanser with soft beads or a PHA acid works well 2-3 times per week without over-drying.
Start Slowly & Listen to Your Skin
It's always best to start slowly when adding new products like exfoliators into your routine. Begin using yours once a week and gradually increase frequency based on how your skin responds.
Signs of over-exfoliation include increased redness, dryness, tightness, flaking, peeling, and sensitivity. If your skin feels irritated, stop exfoliating immediately and focus on soothing and healing the skin barrier before trying again.
The Exception: Double Cleansing
The one exception here is double cleansing - using an oil or balm cleanser before your regular face wash. This Korean beauty trend helps melt away stubborn makeup, SPF, sebum, and impurities from the day.
When double cleansing, you would apply your oil/balm cleanser first on dry skin, then rinse. The second cleanser is applied afterward on damp skin to complete the cleansing process before toning and subsequent steps.
So in the case of double cleansing, exfoliation would still come after using both cleansers to wash the face.
Why Double Cleanse?
Double cleansing offers a few benefits:
- Thoroughly removes waterproof makeup and SPF
- Gently "pampers" skin by dissolving debris instead of tugging at skin like wipes can
- Loosens and lifts away impurities without over-drying
Try introducing a balm, cream, or oil-based cleanser as your first step if you wear long-wearing complexion products or want an ultra hydrating cleanse.
The Takeaway
Exfoliating is Key In summary, gently exfoliating after cleansing allows dead skin cells and product buildup to be removed without spreading extra dirt and oil back into clean pores. Just don't overdo it!
Pay attention to how your skin feels and start slowly when introducing new exfoliators. Patience is key for building a smooth, healthy complexion and moisture barrier over time.
FAQs
Should I exfoliate before or after cleansing my face?
It is generally recommended to exfoliate after cleansing your face. Cleansing first helps remove impurities, oils, and potential irritants from the skin. Exfoliating afterward allows you to remove dead skin cells without rubbing debris back into newly cleansed pores.
How often should I exfoliate my face?
How often you exfoliate depends on your skin type. Sensitive or dry skin may tolerate gentle exfoliation 1-2 times per week. Oilier skin types can exfoliate with acids up to 2-3 times per week safely. Always start slowly with a new exfoliant and gradually increase frequency based on skin tolerance.
What is double cleansing?
Double cleansing is a two-step cleansing process popular in Korean beauty routines. The first cleanser is typically an oil or balm that melts away makeup and sunscreen and loosens impurities. After rinsing, the second gel/foaming cleanser removes additional debris and cleanses the skin before toning.
What causes over exfoliation?
Using harsh scrubs too often or incorrect application of chemical exfoliants can damage the skin barrier and cause irritation. Signs of over exfoliation include inflamed, sensitive skin that feels very tight and dry. It may also appear red, flaky, or peel excessively. Discontinue exfoliation if any of these occur.
How do I pick the right exfoliator?
Look for a very gentle scrub or mild acid if you have sensitive or dry skin. Oily and acne-prone skin may benefit from BHA salicylic acid for unclogging pores. A PHA or AHA acid works well for normal/balanced skin types when used properly. Always patch test a new exfoliant first.
Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new treatment regimen.
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