Can Vitamin C and Azelaic Acid Be Used Together? Benefits, How to Layer, and More

Introduction

Vitamin C and azelaic acid are two of the most popular ingredients in skin care today. Both offer a range of benefits for the skin, from treating acne to fading hyperpigmentation and boosting collagen production. But can these two powerful ingredients be used together safely and effectively?

In this comprehensive guide, we'll look at how vitamin C and azelaic acid work, the benefits of each, and whether or not they can be combined in your skin care routine.

What is Vitamin C?

Vitamin C (also known as ascorbic acid) is an antioxidant that is essential for skin health. It is naturally found in many fruits and vegetables, but the concentration in skin care products is much higher than what you'd get from diet alone.

Applied topically, vitamin C provides numerous benefits:

• Boosts collagen production - Collagen gives skin its firmness and elasticity. Vitamin C signals to fibroblasts in the skin to produce more collagen.
• Fades hyperpigmentation - Vitamin C interferes with melanin production, reducing areas of pigmentation over time with consistent use.
• Brightens skin - Vitamin C gives skin a smoother, more even tone while decreasing dullness.
• Reduces inflammation - The antioxidants in vitamin C calm inflammation, making it helpful for conditions like acne and rosacea.
• Protects from free radicals - As an antioxidant, vitamin C neutralizes free radicals from UV exposure, pollution, and other sources that damage skin.
• Improves moisture content - Vitamin C enhances the skin's barrier function, allowing it to better retain hydration.

What is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid found in grains like wheat, rye, and barley. It is produced by Malassezia yeasts that live on the skin.

In skin care products, azelaic acid offers the following benefits:

• Treats acne - Azelaic acid is antibacterial, so it kills acne-causing bacteria on the skin while reducing inflammation.
• Fades hyperpigmentation - It interferes with tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production, and gently exfoliates to reveal brighter skin.
• Smooths skin texture - By exfoliating dead skin cells and reducing keratin buildup, azelaic acid unveils softer, smoother skin.
• Calms rosacea - The anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties make azelaic acid ideal for treating rosacea.

Comparing Vitamin C and Azelaic Acid

Though both vitamin C and azelaic acid are powerhouse ingredients for the skin, they work in different ways:

Vitamin C

• Antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals
• Stimulates collagen production
• Prevents melanin synthesis
• Enhances skin's moisture barrier
• pH dependent - needs to be formulated at lower pH for effectiveness

Azelaic Acid

• Antimicrobial ingredient
• Exfoliates dead skin cells
• Reduces keratin buildup
• Interferes with melanin production
• Less pH dependent

While vitamin C works mainly as an antioxidant for protection against free radicals, azelaic acid offers more exfoliating and antibacterial benefits.

However, both ingredients are excellent options for improving hyperpigmentation and achieving smooth, bright skin.

Using Vitamin C and Azelaic Acid Together

Because vitamin C and azelaic acid work differently, they can complement each other nicely in a skin care routine. However, there are a few things to consider when using these actives together.

Benefits of Using Vitamin C and Azelaic Acid Together

Some of the benefits of using a vitamin C serum with an azelaic acid product include:

• Enhanced brightening - The combination targets hyperpigmentation through multiple pathways for more rapid results.
• Reduced acne and breakouts - Vitamin C reduces inflammation while azelaic acid kills acne-causing bacteria.
• Smoother skin texture - Exfoliation from azelaic acid and collagen stimulation from vitamin C improves the skin's surface.
• Lower risk of irritation - Using lower concentrations of each minimizes the potential for redness and irritation.

Layering a vitamin C serum underneath an azelaic acid product allows you to reap the combined brightening, smoothing, and anti-acne benefits of both actives.

What to Look Out For

While vitamin C and azelaic acid work well together, here are some things to keep in mind:

• pH levels - Vitamin C needs a lower pH, while azelaic acid is more stable at higher pH levels. Look for vitamin C serums with a pH under 3.5 and azelaic acid products formulated between pH 4-5.
• Formulas - Vitamin C works best in a water-based serum while azelaic acid is typically in a silicone-based formula. Choose complementary textures.
• Concentrations - Start with lower concentrations (10-15% vitamin C, around 10% azelaic acid) to assess tolerance.
• Irritation - Discontinue use if you experience excessive redness, itching, peeling, etc. Use only 2-3x a week at first.
• Photosensitivity - Azelaic acid may make skin more prone to sunburn. Always wear SPF when using.

Paying attention to factors like pH and texture will help these actives work optimally. Starting slow and watching for irritation is key to success.

How to Layer Vitamin C and Azelaic Acid

The best practice is to apply your vitamin C serum first, followed by your azelaic acid product.

Cleanse and apply vitamin C serum to bare skin in the morning, letting it fully absorb. Follow up with moisturizer and SPF.

In the evening, cleanse and apply azelaic acid after your vitamin C serum has absorbed fully. Follow with the rest of your routine.

You can use them together in the morning or evening, but avoid applying them at the same time. Always allow your vitamin C to absorb completely before layering on azelaic acid.

Tips for Layering

• Wait 5-10 minutes between vitamin C and azelaic acid applications.
• Always apply vitamin C first - it needs to get on bare skin.
• Use vitamin C in the morning, azelaic acid at night if irritating together.
• Pay attention to product texture - layer watery serums under creams.
• Start by using the combo 2-3 times a week, then build up.
• Monitor skin for redness, peeling, itching as you adjust.

The Best Products with Vitamin C and Azelaic Acid

Rather than juggling multiple products, some brands make the layering easy by formulating vitamin C and azelaic acid together:

Paula's Choice C15 Super Booster

This is a 15% pure vitamin C concentrate boosted with azelaic and salicylic acids to brighten and smooth skin.

Gigi Bioplasma Azelaic Cream

Contains 15% azelaic acid plus vitamin C to tackle acne, fade marks, improve texture, and reduce redness.

The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension

A budget-friendly option with 10% azelaic acid and vitamin C derivative ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate to brighten.

First Aid Beauty FAB Skin Lab Retinol Serum

Combines 0.25% retinol with vitamin C and azelaic acid for an anti-aging approach to clear, glowing skin.

Murad Rapid Dark Spot Correcting Serum

Hydroquinone, vitamin C, and azelaic acid in one fast-acting serum to fade stubborn marks.

Who Should Use Vitamin C and Azelaic Acid Together?

This dynamic duo can benefit those with the following skin types and concerns:

• Oily, acne-prone skin - Vitamin C and azelaic acid regulate oil and prevent breakouts.
• Hyperpigmentation - Both ingredients prevent melanin production to help fade dark spots.
• Dull, uneven complexion - The combination reveals brighter, clearer skin.
• Fine lines and wrinkles - Vitamin C stimulates collagen to plump skin.
• Rosacea and redness - The anti-inflammatory action calms irritation.

Use twice daily as tolerated to address any of the above concerns. Those with sensitive skin may need to start with 2-3 times a week.

Side Effects and Precautions

Vitamin C and azelaic acid are well-tolerated by most people. However, there are some things to keep in mind:

• Irritation - Discontinue use if you experience excessive stinging, redness, dryness or peeling.
• Sun sensitivity - Azelaic acid may make you more prone to UV damage. Always wear sunscreen.
• Pregnancy/breastfeeding - Check with your doctor before using while pregnant or nursing.
• Skin types - Those with very dry or very sensitive skin need to be cautious when using these actives.

To minimize risk of adverse effects, start slowly with lower concentrations and work your way up in frequency of use. Pay attention to how your skin responds.

The Takeaway

Vitamin C and azelaic acid are two of the most versatile ingredients for achieving smooth, bright, clear skin. Combining them takes advantage of their distinct mechanisms of action for enhanced results.

Use vitamin C in the morning followed by azelaic acid at night after starting slowly at 2-3 times per week. Look for formulations with complementary textures and pH levels for optimal layered application.

Pay attention to any irritation, always wear sunscreen during the day, and adjust frequency of use as needed. When used properly, this dynamic duo can noticeably improve a range of skin concerns.

Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new treatment regimen.