Understanding Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid
Niacinamide (also known as vitamin B3 or nicotinamide) and azelaic acid are two active ingredients that are often found in skin care products. Both offer a variety of benefits for the skin, and are generally well-tolerated. However, some people wonder whether they can be used together safely and effectively.
What is Niacinamide?
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3, an essential nutrient for healthy skin. It offers several benefits when applied topically, including:
- Reducing inflammation and redness
- Minimizing enlarged pores
- Controlling excess oil and sebum production
- Fading dark spots and improving uneven skin tone
- Increasing collagen production and firming skin
- Repairing the skin barrier and improving moisture retention
What is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid found in grains like wheat and barley. It is used to treat several common skin concerns, such as:
- Acne and pimples
- Rosacea
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
- Melasma
- Reducing keratin buildup and rough skin texture
It works by reducing inflammation, evening skin tone, and killing acne-causing bacteria.
Using Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid Together
Niacinamide and azelaic acid complement each other extremely well. Using them together can enhance the overall efficacy thanks to their combined effects.
Potential Benefits
Combining niacinamide and azelaic acid may provide the following targeted solutions for common skin issues:
- Fading acne marks and dark spots: The skin lightening and tone evening effects work together to visibly minimize post-acne pigmentation and age spots.
- Clearing breakouts: Azelaic acid kills acne bacteria while niacinamide heals existing blemishes faster and regulates sebum activity to prevent new breakouts.
- Reducing redness and inflammation: Both ingredients have anti-inflammatory properties that soothe irritated skin prone to flushing, itching, and burning.
- Smoothing skin texture: They unclog pores, exfoliate dead skin cells, reduce keratin buildup, and stimulate collagen - resulting in a smooth, even complexion.
Using Azelaic Acid and Niacinamide Together
When using azelaic acid and niacinamide together, keep these tips in mind:
- Use niacinamide in the morning and azelaic acid at night. Sunlight can deactivate azelaic acid, making nighttime application more effective.
- Start by applying the thinner, more liquid product first. For example, apply a niacinamide serum before a thicker azelaic acid cream.
- Wait 2-3 minutes between applying them to allow the first product to fully absorb into skin.
- When starting out, use azelaic acid just 2-3 times a week at first and slowly increase frequency based on your skin’s tolerance.
- Use a mild, fragrance-free moisturizer to offset any dryness or peeling from the acids.
- Always wear SPF during the daytime to protect skin.
Evidence and Studies on Using Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid
Several studies have analyzed the efficacy and compatibility of using both niacinamide and azelaic acid.
Enhanced Efficacy
A small study had subjects with melasma use a combined 4% niacinamide + 10% azelaic acid cream twice daily for 12 weeks. The double-combination was significantly more effective than 10% azelaic acid alone at visibly reducing symptoms.
Another double-blind, randomized controlled trial had participants apply niacinamide + azelaic acid creams, or a placebo cream, to areas with UV-induced uneven pigmentation twice a day for 12 weeks. The niacinamide + azelaic acid combination worked better for lightening pigmented spots compared to either ingredient alone or placebo.
Well-Tolerated
Safety studies confirm niacinamide and azelaic acid are generally well-tolerated, including with continued use. As leave-on topical ingredients, very little is absorbed systemically. They are unlikely to cause side effects or irritation for most skin types when used as directed.
Always patch test first by applying a small amount to your inner arm twice daily for four days to confirm your skin's compatibility with azelaic acid.
Products With Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid
Here are some excellent over-the-counter products containing both niacinamide and azelaic acid you can try:
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
- 10% azelaic acid
- 10% niacinamide
- Lightweight fluid texture
- Fragrance-free formula
- Can mix in with moisturizers, serums, etc
Glossier Super Pure Serum
- 5% niacinamide
- 5% azelaic acid
- Zinc for extra sebum regulation
- Lightweight gel-cream
- No silicones, fragrances, or parabens
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
- 10% Azelaic acid
- Brightens uneven pigment
- Fragrance-free formula
- Creamy, velvety texture
You can layer The Ordinary Azelaic Acid with other serums containing niacinamide like The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% for added benefits.
The Side Effects of Azelaic Acid and Niacinamide
Azelaic acid and niacinamide have excellent safety profiles. But some people may experience side effects like:
Azelaic Acid Side Effects
- Dryness
- Peeling
- Redness and irritation
- Acne purging at the start of treatment
Using an OTC concentration of 10-15% can help minimize irritation. Starting with applying azelaic acid every 2-3 days also allows your skin to adjust.
Niacinamide Side Effects
- Breakouts (usually from using too high of a percentage)
- Warm, tingling sensation upon application
Stick to using a maximum of 10% niacinamide like in Glossier Super Pure and most side effects are avoidable.
Discontinue use of either ingredient if your experience a more severe reaction like severe itching, swelling, or rash after patch testing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use azelaic acid and niacinamide together?
Yes, azelaic acid and niacinamide complement each other extremely well! Using them together can boost efficacy for fading acne marks and hyperpigmentation, treating breakouts, reducing redness, and smoothing skin.
Should azelaic acid or niacinamide be applied first?
Apply the thinner, more liquid product first to allow it to absorb into your skin properly without barrier disruption. For example, apply a niacinamide serum and let it dry before applying a thicker azelaic acid cream on top.
What percentage of azelaic acid and niacinamide should I use?
Over-the-counter azelaic acid products contain around 10-15% azelaic acid, which is effective for most skin concerns like acne or rosacea. For niacinamide, aim for 5-10% - any higher and you risk experiencing irritation and breakouts.
Can I use azelaic acid and niacinamide twice a day?
You can use niacinamide morning and night. However, azelaic acid is best used at night. Sun exposure deactivates azelaic acid, making daytime application less effective. Use azelaic acid once daily in the PM and niacinamide twice daily.
Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new treatment regimen.
Add Comment