A Detailed Guide on the Benefits of Azelaic Acid for Skin

What is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid that is found in wheat, rye, and barley. It is also produced naturally by Malassezia furfur, a yeast that lives on normal skin. Azelaic acid has emerged as an intriguing ingredient in skin care products, offering a multitude of benefits for various skin concerns.

Some of the main benefits of azelaic acid include:

• Combatting acne and inflammation
• Fading post-acne marks and discoloration
• Brightening dull skin
• Reducing rosacea symptoms
• Minimizing signs of aging

Unlike other alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), azelaic acid is very gentle and well-tolerated on all skin types. It is not photosensitizing, meaning it does not make the skin more prone to sunburn. Additionally, extensive research has shown that azelaic acid is safe for long-term use.

How Does Azelaic Acid Work?

The main mechanisms by which azelaic acid improves various skin conditions include:

• Antimicrobial effects: Azelaic acid has antimicrobial properties that target acne-causing bacteria like Propionibacterium acnes. This helps reduce breakouts.
• Keratolytic action: Azelaic acid works as a mild exfoliant by softening and shedding the top layer of skin cells. This unclogs pores and evens out skin texture.
• Reducing inflammation: Azelaic acid decreases inflammation in the skin which can diminish redness, swelling, and irritation.
• Melanin inhibition: Azelaic acid limits melanin synthesis which helps fade dark spots and discoloration.
• Neutralizing free radicals: As an antioxidant, azelaic acid protects the skin against oxidative damage from environment aggressors.

Thanks to this diverse range of mechanisms, azelaic acid addresses a wide variety of common skin concerns when applied topically.

Benefits of Using Azelaic Acid

Let's take a more in-depth look at the proven skin benefits of azelaic acid:

1. Clears Acne Breakouts

Multiple studies have demonstrated azelaic acid's ability to treat mild to moderate acne vulgaris. Its antimicrobial effect targets acne-causing bacteria on the skin, while its mild exfoliating action unclogs pores and prevents future breakouts.

In a clinical study, participants with inflammatory acne were treated with a 20% azelaic acid cream twice daily for 6 months. After the first month of treatment, significant improvements were seen in non-inflammatory and inflammatory lesion count. By the end of the study, the treatment resulted in an impressive 70% decrease in acne lesions.

Another study found that 15% azelaic acid gel applied twice daily was as effective as 1% clindamycin gel, a common antibiotic acne treatment. The azelaic acid gel significantly reduced pimples after 3 months with minimal side effects.

2. Fades Post-Acne Marks and Hyperpigmentation

For those dealing with the aftermath of acne breakouts, azelaic acid helps fade and prevent the appearance of stubborn dark spots and discoloration known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Its ability to inhibit melanin synthesis reduces excessive melanin formation as the skin heals.

One study noted a significant decrease in visible dark spots after participants applied a 20% azelaic acid cream for 6 months. Another clinical trial found that using azelaic acid plus retinoic acid led to greater improvement in hyperpigmentation and acne compared to retinoic acid alone.

People with melasma, a common pigmentation disorder, may also benefit from azelaic acid's brightening abilities. Melasma typically manifests as brown or gray patches primarily on the face.

3. Calms Rosacea Symptoms

For those struggling with rosacea, azelaic acid may help provide relief for irritated facial skin. Rosacea often results in persistent redness, inflammatory pimples, and visible blood vessels on the face.

The anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties of azelaic acid are useful in tempering multiple rosacea symptoms. A recent meta-analysis concluded that azelaic acid gel and foam formulations significantly improve inflammatory lesions, erythema, and burning or stinging sensations associated with rosacea.

One study showed that applying 15% azelaic acid gel twice per day substantially decreased papules and pustules after 3 months of treatment. Using azelaic acid long-term is an effective strategy for keeping rosacea flare-ups at bay.

4. Smooths Skin Texture

Topical azelaic acid gently exfoliates the upper layers of the epidermis to reveal smoother, brighter skin. Its keratolytic effect helps clear away dead skin cells that can give the complexion a tired, uneven appearance.

Regular use of azelaic acid improves skin texture by busting through congested pores, reducing inflammation, and enhancing cell turnover. Incorporating it into your routine leaves your skin looking restored and refined.

5. Minimizes Signs of Aging

In addition to its other perks, azelaic acid has some anti-aging capabilities stemming from its antioxidant property. Antioxidants limit free radical damage to skin cells to slow the development of wrinkles, fine lines, and sagging skin.

One study noted modest improvements in visible signs of photoaging when 15% azelaic acid gel was applied topically for 6 months. Participants saw reductions in wrinkles, irregular pigmentation, leatheriness, and laxity.

Using azelaic acid sunscreen during the day is recommended to fully defend against UV damage. Its ability to protect skin cell DNA from destruction complements the anti-aging effects of retinoids and AHAs.

Using Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is available over-the-counter in concentrations up to 10% in some countries, while prescription formulas contain 15% to 20% azelaic acid. It comes in various topical forms including gels, foams, and creams.

Here are some tips for incorporating azelaic acid into your skincare routine:

• Start slowly - Begin with the lowest concentration to assess skin tolerance. Using azelaic acid 1-2 times per week can help minimize irritation when adjusting to it.
• Apply sparingly - Only a small amount is needed to cover the entire face. Using too much product won't improve results.
• Use consistently - Improvements are gradual so daily application for at least 4 weeks is ideal before assessing its efficacy.
• Avoid irritated skin - Azelaic acid may cause stinging or itching on broken skin. Allow any active breakouts or wounds to heal before applying it topically.
• Moisturize after - Azelaic acid has a drying effect on some skin types. Follow up with a hydrating moisturizer to prevent excess flaking.
• Limit sun exposure - Azelaic acid may make skin more photosensitive. Always apply sunscreen during daytime use.

Since azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated, it can be combined with other common skincare ingredients like retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, and vitamin C. However, introducing multiple new products at once increases the risk of irritation and dryness.

Observe how your skin responds for at least a month before adding another active ingredient to your azelaic acid routine. Your dermatologist can provide guidance on creating a customized regimen with azelaic acid tailored for your specific skin goals.

Who Should Avoid Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is considered safe for most skin types. However, some people may wish to exercise caution before trying it:

• Sensitive skin - Individuals prone to irritation or dermatitis may not tolerate azelaic acid well. Patch testing is advised.
• Dry skin - The mild exfoliating effect may cause flaking, scaling, or increased dryness.
• Pregnant or breastfeeding women - More research is needed to establish safety for pregnant and nursing mothers.
• Darker skin tones - There is a slight risk of hypo- or hyperpigmentation when using certain skin lightening agents on darker skin.

Consult your doctor first before using new skincare actives if you have any underlying medical conditions or are using other medications that could result in negative interactions.

Is Azelaic Acid Right for Your Skin?

Here are some signs that your skin may benefit from adding azelaic acid into your skincare regimen:

• You struggle with mild to moderate acne, including whiteheads and blackheads.
• You have areas of post-acne marks, melasma, or uneven pigmentation.
• You experience redness, pimples, and flushing due to rosacea.
• You want to smooth out rough skin texture for a glow.
• You notice signs of photodamage and early aging.
• You want to fade enlarged pores and restore radiance.

People with the above skin concerns often see excellent results with azelaic acid. However, keep in mind it is not a quick fix and requires diligent use for at least 4-6 weeks to see meaningful improvements. Have realistic expectations since the full effects take an average of 3-6 months.

Your dermatologist can determine if prescription-strength azelaic acid is right for your needs or provide tips for integrating an over-the-counter formula into your regimen. Schedule a consultation to develop a customized skincare plan to reach your complexion goals.

Azelaic Acid Body Lotion

While azelaic acid is most commonly used as a facial treatment, some people choose to use it elsewhere on the body where acne and discoloration can occur. Formulating azelaic acid into a body lotion allows it to be applied conveniently to larger surface areas.

There are a few over-the-counter options containing azelaic acid specially formulated for the body, particularly the chest and back. These body lotions are designed to clear up breakouts and improve tone and texture on the shoulders, arms, and dcolletage as well.

When looking for an OTC azelaic acid body lotion, check that the formula also contains moisturizing ingredients like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, or shea butter. The hydrating and nourishing elements help counteract the mild exfoliating effects.

Starting with a lower percentage formula of around 5% azelaic acid and applying only 2-3 times per week is recommended when first using it on the body. You can slowly increase the frequency based on how your skin handles it.

Keep in mind that azelaic acid body lotion can make your skin more sun-sensitive. Always follow up application with a broad spectrum sunscreen before sun exposure. Wearing protective clothing is also advised when using azelaic acid on the body.

For moderate to severe cases of acne, rosacea, or pigmentation on the body, a prescription azelaic acid formulation may be warranted. Discuss options with your dermatologist to determine if medical-grade azelaic acid could be beneficial for stubborn skin issues affecting larger body areas.

The Takeaway

Packed with skin-enhancing benefits, azelaic acid is an underutilized skincare ingredient that deserves more recognition. It offers a compelling option for tackling some of the most common complexion concerns like breakouts, redness, hyperpigmentation, and signs of aging.

Azelaic acid works on multiple fronts to gently exfoliate, brighten, even tone and texture, and fight bacteria. Both over-the-counter and prescription formulas can lead to visible improvements when used consistently over time.

Consider adding azelaic acid into your skincare regimen if you want clearer, calmer, more radiant skin. Just be sure to introduce it slowly and take preventive steps against potential side effects like irritation, dryness, and sun sensitivity.

With diligent use, you'll unlock the many benefits of azelaic acid for restored, smooth, healthy skin.

Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new treatment regimen.