Using Azelaic Acid Serum for Clear, Even Skin
Azelaic acid has become a popular skincare ingredient for treating several conditions like acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. It's available in various products, but serums provide a concentrated dose of azelaic acid that can effectively target skin concerns.
But what exactly is azelaic acid? And what benefits can you expect from using an azelaic acid serum?
What is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid found in grains like wheat, rye, and barley. It can also be synthesized in a lab setting.
Chemically, azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid. It has antimicrobial effects against acne-causing bacteria. It also has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin lightening properties.
Azelaic acid works by reducing swelling and redness, unclogging pores, and decreasing melanin production. These mechanisms make it useful for treating several skin issues.
Benefits of Using Azelaic Acid Serum
Using an azelaic acid serum can provide benefits for a variety of skin types and concerns:
Rosacea
Azelaic acid can reduce facial redness, inflammation, and swelling associated with rosacea. It also helps clear acne-like breakouts common in rosacea.
Studies show azelaic acid gels and foams are as effective as antibiotics and metronidazole for rosacea. It performs comparably to drugs like ivermectin too.
Acne and Clogged Pores
Azelaic acid has comedolytic properties, meaning it breaks down the keratin that clogs pores. This prevents dead skin buildup and allows other acne medications to penetrate deeper.
It also has antibacterial effects against acne-causing Propionibacterium acnes bacteria. This helps reduce breakouts and inflammation.
Post-Acne Marks and Hyperpigmentation
By interfering with melanin synthesis, azelaic acid can fade areas of unwanted pigmentation. It's particularly effective at treating acne marks and melasma.
One study of melasma patients found a 20% azelaic acid cream produced good results in 68% of subjects after 24 weeks.
Skin Texture and Tone
Azelaic acid exfoliates the top layer of skin to reveal fresher cells underneath. This can improve skin texture, reduce scarring, and help even out skin tone.
How to Use Azelaic Acid Serum
Using an azelaic acid serum properly is key to getting optimal results. Here are some tips:
Apply to Clean, Dry Skin
Azelaic acid works best on a clean canvas. Wash your face with a gentle cleanser and pat dry before applying the serum.
Use a Low Strength at First
Start with a lower concentration around 10% to assess your tolerance, especially if new to azelaic acid. Increase to 15-20% strength over time as your skin adjusts.
Apply a Thin Layer
Only a small amount of serum is needed to cover the entire face. Use a couple drops and spread it between your fingers before patting onto skin.
Focus on Problem Areas
Target azelaic acid serum to areas prone to breakouts, rosacea flares, or hyperpigmentation for enhanced results.
Use Twice Daily
Apply azelaic acid serum morning and evening for best effects. Make sure to include it in your nighttime routine since skin repairs itself overnight.
Follow with Moisturizer
Azelaic acid can be drying, especially at higher strengths. Always follow with a hydrating moisturizer to counteract dryness and peeling.
Side Effects of Azelaic Acid
When used properly, azelaic acid serums are generally well-tolerated. Potential side effects may include:
- Dryness, peeling, stinging
- Itching, tingling, burning
- Redness and irritation
Start by using azelaic acid every other day. Over several weeks, slowly increase frequency to build tolerance without overwhelming your skin.
Who Should Avoid Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid isn't suitable for everyone. Use cautiously if you have:
- Very sensitive skin
- Damaged skin barrier
- Allergy to grains like barley, wheat, rye
Discontinue use if you experience severe redness, stinging, itching, or burning. Azelaic acid serums may be too harsh for some skin types.
How to Maximize Azelaic Acid Benefits
For best results from your azelaic acid serum, try these tips:
Apply SPF in the AM
Since azelaic acid can make skin more sun sensitive, daily SPF is a must. Opt for a broad spectrum formula with at least SPF 30.
Use Retinoids at Night
Combining azelaic acid with OTC retinoids like adapalene can boost acne-fighting and exfoliating effects. But only use them together at night.
Spot Treat with Benzoyl Peroxide
Layering benzoyl peroxide over azelaic acid serum on active breakouts provides added antibacterial action to clear acne.
Incorporate Vitamin C
Pairing vitamin C antioxidant serum with azelaic acid combats free radicals and reduces hyperpigmentation faster.
The Bottom Line
Azelaic acid serums offer a multitasking skincare solution for acne, rosacea, melasma, and texture concerns. But introduce azelaic acid slowly and use only as tolerated to avoid irritation.
When combined with sunscreen, retinoids, and vitamin C, azelaic acid can visibly improve several skin issues. Just be patient, as it may take weeks or months of daily use to see results.
How Azelaic Acid Compares to Other Acids
Azelaic acid belongs to a class of chemicals called dicarboxylic acids. Other examples include malonic, succinic, and adipic acid.
While azelaic acid is less common in skincare, other types of acids are frequently used:
AHA vs. Azelaic Acid
AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) like glycolic and lactic acid exfoliate the skin's top layer. They help with texture, hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and acne.
But AHAs are primarily exfoliants while azelaic acid offers exfoliation plus anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and lightening effects.
BHA vs. Azelaic Acid
BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) like salicylic acid work inside pores to dissolve dead skin and oil. This makes BHAs effective at preventing and clearing acne.
Azelaic acid also unclogs pores but has the added benefits of reducing bacteria and redness. It's gentler than BHA for sensitive skin.
PHAs vs. Azelaic Acid
PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) are a new class of gentler exfoliants. Gluconolactone and lactobionic acid are common PHAs.
PHAs are suitable for sensitive skin unlike the stronger AHAs. But azelaic acid offers much more than just exfoliation.
Mandelic Acid vs. Azelaic Acid
Mandelic acid is an AHA derived from bitter almonds. It exfoliates mildly and has some antibacterial properties.
However, azelaic acid has stronger antimicrobial effects against acne. It also reduces pigmentation more effectively than mandelic acid.
Using Azelaic Acid While Pregnant
Azelaic acid is generally considered safe for use during pregnancy. Small amounts applied topically to the skin are unlikely to be absorbed systemically in high levels.
In fact, doctors may actually prescribe azelaic acid to pregnant women to treat conditions like acne, rosacea, and melasma.
That being said, check with your doctor before using azelaic acid skincare while pregnant. Discontinue use if you experience any irritation or discomfort.
Azelaic acid is considered very low risk during breastfeeding as well since minimal amounts enter the bloodstream. But as always, consult your physician first.
Tips for Using Azelaic Acid When Pregnant
Here are some recommendations for safely using azelaic acid if you're expecting:
- Use only low strengths around 10%-15%
- Spot treat instead of full face application
- Limit use to once daily or every other day
- Monitor skin closely for sensitivity or reactions
- Avoid using on the chest/neck area to limit absorption
Discontinue azelaic acid products if signs of irritation like redness, stinging, or itching develop. And always get your doctor's okay first before using while pregnant.
Natural Sources of Azelaic Acid
While azelaic acid serums provide a concentrated dose, some natural food sources contain small amounts of it as well. These include:
Whole Grains
Azelaic acid occurs naturally in whole grain crops like wheat, rye, and barley. But levels are generally too low to have a significant skincare impact from diet alone.
Animal Products
Meats and animal products contain azelaic acid since livestock consume grain-based feeds. But you'd have to eat very high amounts to obtain topical benefits.
Legumes
Beans, peas, soybeans, peanuts, and lentils contain trace azelaic acid. However, levels are still low compared to formulated skincare products.
Beer and Vinegar
Since azelaic acid is produced during the fermentation process, it's found in fermented foods like beer, vinegar, and sourdough bread.
But dietary amounts from these foods don't equal what's found in azelaic acid serums and treatments.
Is Azelaic Acid Vegan?
Yes, azelaic acid is considered vegan. Most azelaic acid used in skincare products is lab-synthesized rather than derived from animal sources.
Chemically synthesized azelaic acid does not contain any animal ingredients or byproducts. It's produced through combining other plant-based chemicals.
Even naturally sourced azelaic acid from grains and fermented foods isn't an animal product. So azelaic acid is typically vegan-friendly.
That said, check the full ingredients list of any azelaic acid serum to confirm it does not contain any non-vegan additives. But azelaic acid itself aligns with vegan diet and skincare restrictions.
FAQs
Can I use azelaic acid with retinol?
Yes, azelaic acid and retinol can be used together. But it's best to apply them at different times of day, like azelaic acid in the morning and retinol at night. Using both together may increase irritation.
Does azelaic acid help with wrinkles?
Azelaic acid may help reduce appearance of fine lines and wrinkles somewhat by exfoliating and boosting collagen production. But its anti-aging effects are relatively minor compared to retinoids.
Can I use azelaic acid after microneedling?
No, avoid azelaic acid and other potentially irritating actives for several days after microneedling. Microneedling compromises the skin barrier, so harsh products could cause significant irritation.
Is azelaic acid good for fungal acne?
Yes, azelaic acid has antimicrobial effects against fungal acne (malassezia). It helps treat and prevent the fungal overgrowth that causes fungal acne breakouts.
Can I use azelaic acid with benzoyl peroxide?
You can use azelaic acid and benzoyl peroxide together, but it's best to layer them rather than mixing. Apply benzoyl peroxide first, let it dry, then follow with azelaic acid.
Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new treatment regimen.
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