Understanding Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is emerging as an increasingly popular skincare ingredient. But what exactly is azelaic acid, and why is it growing in usage? Here we'll explore what makes this mild acid so effective for a variety of skin concerns.
What is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid that is produced by a yeast that lives on normal skin. It is also found in grains like wheat, rye and barley. In skincare, azelaic acid is synthetically reproduced in labs for commercial uses.
This mild acid has anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antifungal and anti-pigmentation properties. This makes it effective at treating a number of skin issues ranging from acne and rosacea to melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
How Azelaic Acid Works
The exact mechanisms behind how azelaic acid improves skin are not yet fully understood. But it is known to work in a few key ways:
- Unplugging debris and bacteria from follicles to prevent breakouts
- Reducing inflammation and redness
- Regulating skin cell production and turnover
- Inhibiting melanin production which improves pigmentation and discoloration
Benefits of Using Azelaic Acid
With its unique blend of abilities, azelaic acid has become a popular treatment for an array of skin issues. Some of the top benefits include:
Minimizing Breakouts
One of the top uses of azelaic acid is clearing up breakout-prone skin. By entering the follicle and killing bacteria like Cutibacterium acnes that contributes to acne, it stops existing pimples in their tracks and suppresses new ones.
It also minimizes side effects like redness and inflammation that often accompany breakouts. This also makes azelaic acid gentle enough for those with sensitive or reddness-prone complexions like those with rosacea.Fading Hyperpigmentation
By blocking abnormal melanin production, azelaic acid is remarkably effective at treating pigmentation issues like dark patches, melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation left after a breakout. It helps by preventing new discoloration while fading existing ones for a brighter, more even complexion over time. Azelaic acid has even been shown to decrease UV-induced pigmentation when used continuously.
Anti-Aging Results
The ability to accelerate cell turnover reveals fresher skin while regulating production curbs excess oiliness. This gives azelaic acid mild anti-aging abilities to refine texture, boost radiance and minimize fine lines and wrinkles.
Additionally, its antioxidant protection and collagen-supporting effects further its long-term rejuvenating capabilities.
Using Azelaic Acid in Your Routine
Now that you know why azelaic acid deserves a spot in your skincare lineup, lets cover how to properly use it.
Finding the Right Formula
Azelaic acid is most commonly found in leave-on serums and creams with concentrations ranging from 10-20%. Lower percentages around 10% tend to work well for anti-aging and pigmentation while 15-20% targets more stubborn acne and rosacea.
Look for formulas without skin irritants and fragrances. Combining azelaic acid with other gentle skin soothers like niacinamide, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid or ceramides can also boost its efficacy.
Application Tips
Using azelaic acid properly ensures the best results:
- Always do patch test to check for irritation first
- Apply twice daily after cleansing, before heavier moisturizers
- Only use a pearl-sized amount all over face or on treatment areas
- When using for acne, allow formula to fully absorb before applying other products
- Expect some tingling when first applied. If excessive, switch to every other day
Side Effects and Precautions
Azelaic acid is generally very well tolerated, even for those with sensitive skin. The most common side effect is some redness, stinging/burning or itchiness which normally goes away as the skin builds tolerance.
Using azelaic acid with retinoids like tretinoin or benzoyl peroxide can enhance benefits but also increase dryness and peeling. Introduce both carefully and back off if irritation occurs.
While generally pregnancy safe, check with your dermatologist when nursing or if concerned about use during pregnancy. Azelaic acid may also make skin more sensitive to UV rays, so be diligent about sun protection when using.
The Takeaway
Packed with ability to treat breakouts, rosacea, melasma and signs of aging alike, azelaic acid is one of the most versatile skincare ingredients around. Using this gentle acid correctly optimizes its effectiveness for clearer, more radiant skin.
Mindful usage can minimize any temporary side effects. But overall, ordinary azelaic acid can give you extraordinary complexion improvements.
FAQs
What skin types should use azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is suitable for all skin types. Those with oily, acne-prone skin will benefit from its ability to clear breakouts and regulate oil production. It's also extremely gentle, making it a great option for those with sensitive, reddness-prone skin like rosacea.
How long does it take for azelaic acid to work?
Initial results can be seen within a few weeks of using azelaic acid. However, it can take 3-6 months for maximum effects on issues like acne, rosacea and pigmentation. Be patient, start slow with usage and allow your skin to build up tolerance.
Can I use azelaic acid with other acids or retinoids?
In many cases yes, but monitor your skin carefully. Using glycolic acid, salicylic acid or retinoids like retinol or tretinoin together enhances results but also increases risk of dryness, peeling and irritation. Adjust usage levels accordingly.
Does azelaic acid make skin more sun-sensitive?
Like other acids, azelaic acid can increase photosensitivity and make skin more prone to UV damage. Always wear broad spectrum sunscreen daily when using azelaic acid in your skincare routine.
Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new treatment regimen.
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