Should You Wash Your Hair Before Dyeing It?
If you're considering changing up your look with some vibrant hair color, you likely have questions about best practices. One key question many people have is whether they should wash their hair right before applying dye. The answer isn't quite as straightforward as you may think.
Why Some Stylists Recommend Washing First
Some stylists and colorists argue that you should shampoo your hair within 24-48 hours before dyeing for a few key reasons:
- Removes dirt, oil, and product buildup so dye absorbs evenly
- Opens up hair cuticles for better dye penetration
- Prevents dye adhering to impurities which can cause fading
Washing opens the outer hair cuticle layer so dye molecules can readily penetrate inner layers where they'll be securely locked in. This can allow for longer lasting vibrancy.
The Case for Dyeing Over Unwashed Hair
However, other experts strongly advise NOT shampooing immediately before applying dye and recommend dyeing over slightly unwashed hair instead. Reasons for skipping the shampoo include:
- Natural oils provide protection from damage
- Dye takes better to oils on unwashed hair
- Less risk of cuticle swelling from washing
Washing causes swelling and opening of the cuticles. If they remain open and swollen when dye is applied, it can seep too deeply into hair's inner cortex causing damage. The natural oils on unwashed hair protect while still allowing dye absorption.
Weighing the Pros and Cons of Washing Before Dyeing
As you can see, there are good arguments on both sides for washing as well as not washing before dyeing. So what's the best way forward?
Here's an overview of key considerations as you decide whether pre-coloring wash is right for you:
Your Hair Type and Texture
Thick, coarse, curly, and coily textures with plenty of natural oil production can typically hold up well to a wash before dyeing. But finer, thinner hair with less protective oils may risk more damage if washed right before. Assess your unique hair type and texture.
Current Condition of Hair
If your hair is overly dry or damaged from prior dyeing, bleaching, heat styling, or other chemical processing, skipping the wash will allow protective oils and emollients to remain. But if your hair is healthy, washing first poses little risk.
Dye Formula You've Chosen
Permanent dyes, high volume developers, or longer processing times can all increase potential for damage. It's wisest to avoid pre-wash when using these more aggressive formulas. For semi-permanent options with gentler developers and shorter process times, washing first may be fine.
Your Stylist's Expert Advice
Talk over your unique hair goals, history, texture, and chosen color formula with your stylist. Trust their professional judgement on whether your hair could withstand a wash right before dyeing or would fare better unwashed. Ask them to explain their rationale.
Desired Length of Dye Vibrancy
If maximizing long lasting dye brilliance is your top priority, creating the most receptive environment by clarifying first may be worth the small risk of cuticle damage. But if maintaining the health of your strands trumps perfect vibrancy, skip the wash.
Time Between Washing and Dyeing
Even those who advocate pre-wash suggest waiting at least 24 hours between shampooing and applying dye. This allows cuticles to close fully so dye mostly penetrates the cortex not just washed-open cuticles that would allow faster fading.
Best Practice Tips for Dyeing Hair
Whether you opt to shampoo first or not, following some best practices for the entire coloring process will help ensure you achieve beautiful, healthy, vibrant results:
1. Protect Areas Not Being Dyed
Use a barrier cream along your hairline, neck, and ears to prevent staining skin. Petroleum jelly works perfectly. Use shower caps, gloves, old shirts, and towels to prevent splatters elsewhere.
2. Section Your Hair Smartly
Part dry hair cleanly into four sections before applying dye. Start by dividing hair down the central part from forehead to nape then divide side to side from ear to ear. Secure the three sections not being worked with using large clips.
3. Apply Dye Meticulously
Work carefully and systematically to fully saturate every strand, applying with a tinting brush for maximum control. Do not rub or scrub hair vigorously as this can cause damage. Apply dye roots to ends.
4. Monitor Timing
Once application is complete, cover hair with a processing cap and monitor the clock to avoid leaving dye on too long. For permanent dye with a 20 volume developer, aim for about 25 minutes. The timing varies based on formula so follow directions.
5. Rinse Patiently and Completely
Rinse repeatedly in warm water using a wide-tooth comb until the water runs completely clear and all traces of dye have been removed. Harsher stream pressure can damage delicate tresses.
Properly Cleanse, Condition, and Protect Post-Dye
Gently cleanse hair without harsh sulfates a few days after dyeing once color has fully oxidized and sealed within the cortex, then use a rich conditioner. Reduce heat styling and environmental damage by sheltering hair under hats and silk wraps when possible.
Special Considerations for Bleached or Highlighted Hair
If you wish to dye previously bleached or highlighted hair, taking special care to avoid unnecessary damage is key. These delicate areas have minimal protective cuticle layers left so are highly prone to penetration by dyes, developers, shampoos, and other products.
The Risks of Dyeing Over Bleached Hair
Attempting to dye extremely porous bleached hair without special precautions poses significant risks including:
- Hair breaking off from being overprocessed
- Hot roots effect as hair's warmth interacts with dye
- Uneven dye absorption since bleached hair grabs more dye faster
- Unintended color results that appear darker than expected as the underlying pigment absorbs
Tips to Safely Dye Bleached or Highlighted Hair
Follow these tips for minimising risks and achieving your desired look when applying dye over bleached/highlighted hair:
- Use extreme gentleness in washing, handling, brushing, etc.
- Select semi or demi-permanent gentle, conditioning dyes
- Use 10 volume or lower developer to minimize cuticle swelling
- Apply sparingly only where highlights exist
- Carefully monitor processing time
- Rinse with cold water to avoid cuticle expansion
- Deeply nourish hair with conditioning masks for some weeks post-color
Exercising patience by slowly applying dye in multiple rounds allows better control for selectively enhancing highlights.
How to Care for Dyed Hair
Caring properly for your freshly dyed tresses is equally important as the dye process itself to maintain vibrant, healthy hair. Be sure to:
1. Skip Harsh Shampoos
Harsh sulfates strip color rapidly. Opt for ultra-gentle, sulfate-free cleansers instead.
2. Use Cool Water
Hot water accelerates color fading. Rinse with cooler temperatures as much as possible.
3. Shampoo Sparingly
Only lather up every 2-3 days instead of daily to avoid excessive stripping of color.
4. Deep Condition Frequently
Counteract potential dryness from dye by using rich overnight masks weekly.
5. Protect From Sun
Shield hair under a hat, wrap, or scarf to prevent UV light from dulling color.
Taking excellent care of your strands preserves the beautiful color you worked so hard to achieve!
Achieve Gorgeous, Healthy Dyed Hair
As you can see, whether to wash or not wash before dyeing depends greatly on your individual scenario. Carefully consider your hair's current health and structure along with the permanent vs semi-permanent dye choice and developer being used. An experienced stylist guides you to the ideal choice for your unique needs.
Preparation is key. Once you've determined washing or not washing first, vigorously protect hairline and skin then section hair neatly for careful, meticulous application. Pay close attention to timing and thoroughly rinse free of excess dye.
Post-coloring, treat strands gently and nourish deeply with conditioning masks while keeping a watchful eye on water temperature, shampoo harshness, sun protection, and frequency of lathering up. Follow these guidelines and you'll achieve healthy, brilliant, head-turning dye results!
FAQs
Why do some stylists recommend washing hair before dyeing?
Washing removes buildup so dye absorbs evenly. It opens cuticles for better dye penetration and prevents fading from dye sticking to impurities. However, other risks exist.
What's the case against washing right before dyeing?
Natural oils protect from damage and improve dye absorption. Washing causes cuticle swelling and opening, allowing dye to penetrate too deeply if cuticles remain swollen during application.
How do you decide whether to wash first or not?
Consider your hair type, current hair health, permanence of dye, developer volume, styling guidance, importance of long-lasting results, and time between washing and dyeing when deciding.
What risks exist when dyeing bleached or highlighted hair?
Risks of dyeing over bleached hair include damage from overprocessing, hot roots effect, uneven dye absorption, and unintended darker color results. Special precautions are needed.
How can you best care for hair after dyeing?
Be gentle, use sulfate-free shampoos, rinse with cool water, shampoo less often, deeply condition hair, and protect strands from sun exposure. Follow these tips to maintain vibrant, healthy color.
Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new treatment regimen.
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