An In-Depth Guide to Using Glycolic Acid and Azelaic Acid Together
Glycolic acid and azelaic acid are two of the most popular ingredients in skin care today. Both offer a wide range of benefits for the skin, from reducing acne to fading dark spots and improving skin texture. But is it safe and effective to use glycolic acid and azelaic acid together? In this comprehensive guide, we'll explore everything you need to know about these two powerful acids and how to incorporate them into your routine.
What is Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that is derived from sugarcane. It is a chemical exfoliant that works by dissolving the bonds between skin cells on the very top layer of the skin. This allows dead skin cells to slough off more easily, revealing the fresh new skin underneath. Glycolic acid is one of the smallest AHA molecules, meaning it can penetrate the skin more deeply than many other AHAs.
Some key benefits of glycolic acid include:
- Removing dead skin cells and promoting faster cell turnover
- Reducing acne and clogged pores
- Improving skin texture and reducing fine lines and wrinkles
- Helping other skin care ingredients penetrate better
- Fading hyperpigmentation and reducing signs of sun damage
Glycolic acid is generally well-tolerated, but it can cause irritation, redness, peeling, and increased sun sensitivity in some individuals, especially at higher concentrations. Using it properly and taking the right precautions can minimize the risk of side effects.
What is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid that is produced by a yeast that lives on our skin. It is gentler than many other chemical exfoliants but still offers a wide array of benefits. Some key actions of azelaic acid include:
- Reducing acne-causing bacteria on the skin
- Decreasing skin cell buildup in pores
- Reducing inflammation and redness
- Fading post-acne marks and melasma
- Improving skin texture and brightening skin tone
- Having antioxidant properties to protect skin from environmental damage
Azelaic acid is considered safe for all skin types. It is less irritating than many other acids. The side effects are typically mild and may include temporary skin dryness, stinging, itching, and tingling.
Benefits of Using Glycolic Acid and Azelaic Acid Together
Glycolic acid and azelaic acid complement each other extremely well when used as part of the same skin care routine. Combining these two ingredients can provide far superior results compared to using either acid on its own. Here are some of the biggest benefits you can achieve:
Enhanced Exfoliation
Glycolic acid is an AHA, meaning it dissolves the bonds between dead skin cells to promote exfoliation. Azelaic acid mildly exfoliates too, but in a different way involving direct cell regulation. Using both means you get physical and chemical exfoliation for more thorough removal of dead skin.
Reduced Acne and Breakouts
Both glycolic acid and azelaic acid combat acne in multiple ways. Glycolic acid cleans pores, removes dead skin cells, and allows acne treatments to penetrate better. Azelaic acid decreases swelling and redness, fights acne bacteria, and stops skin cells from piling up in pores. Using the two together provides a powerhouse acne-fighting combo.
Fading Hyperpigmentation
Glycolic acid and azelaic acid are both highly effective at fading different types of hyperpigmentation, including acne marks and melasma. Glycolic acid accelerates cell turnover to quickly reveal fresher skin, while azelaic acid inhibits melanin production. Together, they work in tandem to fade discoloration fast.
Smoother, Brighter Complexion
Both glycolic acid and azelaic acid refine skin texture, improve tone and radiance, and reduce signs of sun damage with continued use. Glycolic acid stimulates collagen production while azelaic acid protects against oxidative damage. Applying them together gives your complexion a smoother, brighter and more youthful appearance.
Enhanced Product Absorption
One benefit of glycolic acid is the ability to enhance absorption of skin care products applied on top of it. Azelaic acid allows other topicals to penetrate more deeply as well. Using them together maximizes this effect, helping your entire skin care routine work more effectively.
How to Use Glycolic Acid and Azelaic Acid Together
When used properly, glycolic acid and azelaic acid complement each other very well in a skin care regimen. Here are some tips for getting the best results:
Choose Low Concentrations
Glycolic acid and azelaic acid can cause irritation, dryness, and peeling at higher concentrations, especially when used together. Opt for lower concentrations around 5-10% to minimize risk. This still provides good results with less side effects.
Don't Use Every Day Initially
These acids make your skin more photosensitive, so daily use may cause excessive sensitivity and redness. Start by using them 2-3 times a week in the evening, then gradually work up to daily use if your skin can tolerate it.
Apply Glycolic Acid First
Apply glycolic acid first since it has a lower pH than azelaic acid. The glycolic will help prep your skin and allow deeper penetration of the azelaic acid.
Wait 10-15 Minutes Between Acids
Give your skin some time to recover after the glycolic before applying azelaic acid. This helps prevent irritation and sensitivity.
Use a Moisturizer After
Always follow up your acids with a good moisturizer. Glycolic and azelaic acid can dry out your skin. The moisturizer helps counteract that dryness and irritation.
Avoid Using on the Same Nights as Retinoids
Don't use glycolic/azelaic acid at the same time as retinoids like tretinoin. They can be too harsh when combined. Use retinoids and acids on alternating evenings instead.
Take Days Off
Give your skin rest days with no acids to avoid over-exfoliation. Limit glycolic/azelaic acid to 5 or 6 nights a week maximum.
Use SPF in the Morning
Since the acids increase photosensitivity, it's critical to apply SPF 30+ sunscreen in the AM after using them in your nightly routine.
What Products to Use
There are a few ways to incorporate glycolic acid and azelaic acid into your regimen:
Glycolic Acid Toner + Azelaic Acid Serum
Choose a glycolic acid toner with 5-10% concentration and follow up with an azelaic acid serum with 10-15% concentration after waiting 10-15 minutes. This allows maximum absorption of both.
Glycolic/Azelaic Acid Combo Products
Some products now combine these two acids into one formula, usually with lower concentrations of each. This simplifies your routine. Just be sure to do a patch test first.
Professional Chemical Peels
Higher concentration glycolic peels performed by a dermatologist can be combined with prescription-strength azelaic acid for dramatic results. Always get professional guidance for chemical peels.
Side Effects and Precautions
When using glycolic acid and azelaic acid together, keep these precautions in mind:
- Patch test each new product before trying it on your full face.
- Start slowly and work up to daily use.
- Only use once a day in the evening.
- Avoid using on the same nights as retinoids.
- Apply SPF 30+ sunscreen every morning after use.
- Discontinue use if you experience stinging, peeling, excessive redness or irritation.
- Keep high percentage chemical peels to trained professionals only.
The Right Formulas and Frequency for Your Skin
Choosing the optimal glycolic/azelaic acid products and usage frequency involves some trial and error. Pay attention to how your skin reacts and adjust your regimen accordingly. Here are some general guidelines based on skin type:
Sensitive Skin
- 5-7% glycolic acid 2-3 times a week
- 10% azelaic acid 2-3 times a week
Normal Skin
- 5-10% glycolic acid 3-4 times a week
- 15% azelaic acid daily
Oily/Acne-Prone Skin
- 10% glycolic acid daily
- 15-20% azelaic acid daily
Dry/Mature Skin
- 5-7% glycolic acid 2-4 times a week
- 10-15% azelaic acid daily
Back off if your skin shows signs of irritation and over-exfoliation like peeling, stinging, or increased sensitivity. You may need to use the acids less frequently or at lower concentrations based on your skin's tolerance.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use glycolic acid and azelaic acid together if I have sensitive skin?
Yes, but you'll need to take some extra precautions. Opt for lower acid concentrations around 5-10%. Only use them 2-3 times a week at first. Always apply a moisturizer after to counteract dryness and irritation. If your skin stings or feels overly sensitive, discontinue use.
What's the best order to apply glycolic acid and azelaic acid?
Apply the glycolic acid toner first since it has a lower pH, then follow with the azelaic acid serum after waiting 10-15 minutes. This allows deeper penetration of both acids.
Is it safe to use glycolic acid, azelaic acid and retinoids together?
It's best not to use glycolic/azelaic acid and retinoids like tretinoin or retinol on the same nights. They can be too harsh on skin when layered. Use the acids and retinoids on alternating evenings instead.
Can I use glycolic acid and azelaic acid if I'm pregnant or breastfeeding?
No, it's recommended to avoid chemical exfoliants containing glycolic acid or other AHAs during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Azelaic acid may also be prohibited for pregnant women - check with your doctor.
How long does it take to see results from glycolic and azelaic acid?
You should notice some minor improvements after a few weeks of consistent use. But it takes 2-3 months of daily application to see significant improvements in tone, texture, acne, and hyperpigmentation.
Do I need to use SPF if I'm using glycolic and azelaic acid?
Yes, you must use SPF 30 or higher every morning after using glycolic or azelaic acid in your evening routine. These acids make your skin much more prone to sun damage.
The Bottom Line
Glycolic acid and azelaic acid are two powerhouse ingredients that work brilliantly together. Glycolic provides chemical exfoliation to reveal fresh new skin, while azelaic acid tackles acne, inflammation, and discoloration. Using them as part of a carefully formulated regimen can transform lackluster, congested complexions.
Just be sure to choose lower acid concentrations, start slowly, and take precautions against increased photosensitivity. Pay attention to how your skin reacts and adjust product choice and frequency accordingly. Used properly, this dynamic duo can get your skin glowing!
FAQs
Can I use glycolic acid and azelaic acid if I have eczema or rosacea?
Azelaic acid may be beneficial for eczema and rosacea, but glycolic acid could further irritate these conditions. Check with your dermatologist before using glycolic acid if you have eczema or rosacea.
What percentage of glycolic acid and azelaic acid should I start with?
Start with lower percentages around 5-10% glycolic acid and 10-15% azelaic acid. This helps minimize irritation when introducing the acids. Gradually increase concentration as your skin builds tolerance.
How do I know if my skin is purging or reacting badly to these acids?
Purging lasts 2-6 weeks and consists of increased acne in areas you typically breakout. A bad reaction causes excessive peeling, redness, itching or sensitivity in new areas of skin. Discontinue use if you have a bad reaction.
Can I use glycolic acid and azelaic acid with other exfoliants?
It's best not to over-exfoliate your skin. Avoid combining glycolic/azelaic acid with scrubs, retinoids, or other acids to prevent irritation.
Should I use glycolic acid and azelaic acid in the morning or evening?
Use them in your evening routine only. Glycolic/azelaic acid make skin more photosensitive, so apply SPF in the AM. Using them at night gives time for the acids to work while avoiding sun sensitivity.
Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new treatment regimen.
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