What Not to Mix with Azelaic Acid in Your Skincare Routine

Understanding Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid that is used as an active ingredient in various skin care products. It offers a range of benefits for skin concerns like acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. However, since azelaic acid is an active ingredient, it's important to be mindful of what not to mix it with in your skin care routine to avoid potential reactions or reduced effectiveness.

What is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid that is produced naturally by yeast that lives on normal skin. It is available in over-the-counter skin care products in concentrations of 10% to 20% and can also be prescribed in higher strengths of 15% to 20% for conditions like rosacea.

Azelaic acid works in several ways to improve common skin concerns:

• Reduces inflammation and redness
• Prevents growth of acne-causing bacteria
• Helps renew skin cells and minimize keratin buildup
• Lightens pigmented spots and evens out skin tone

Due to these mechanisms of action, azelaic acid has become a popular treatment for acne, rosacea, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Potential Irritation

While azelaic acid can ultimately reduce skin irritation, it does have the potential to cause irritation, especially when you first start using it. This irritation may present as redness, dryness, peeling, swelling or itching.

To minimize irritation, it's recommended to start slowly with azelaic acid. Try applying it every other day at first and gradually work up to daily application. Using a moisturizer before applying azelaic acid can also buffer the effects.

What Not to Mix with Azelaic Acid

Since azelaic acid can be irritating and is intended to work deep within the skin, it's important not to combine it with certain ingredients that could limit its efficacy or increase irritation. Things you'll want to avoid using at the same time as azelaic acid include:

Retinoids

Retinoids like retinol, tretinoin, and tazarotene work deep in the skin like azelaic acid does. Using azelaic acid with retinoids could over-exfoliate and dry out the skin, causing redness, peeling, irritation and increased sensitivity to sunlight.

It's best to use azelaic acid and retinoids at different times of day, such as azelaic acid in the morning and retinoid at night. Or you can alternate days using them.

Benzoyl Peroxide

Benzoyl peroxide is another common acne treatment ingredient. However, combining it with azelaic acid can inactivate azelaic acid and reduce its efficacy. The benzoyl peroxide oxidizes azelaic acid.

Apply these ingredients at different times, like benzoyl peroxide in the morning and azelaic acid at night. Make sure to wash your face and wait 15-20 minutes between application to prevent lowering azelaic acid absorption.

AHA and BHA Acids

AHAs like glycolic and lactic acid as well as BHA salicylic acid are alpha and beta hydroxy acids used in many chemical exfoliants. Using AHA/BHA exfoliants at the same time as azelaic acid could over-exfoliate and irritate the skin.

Use chemical exfoliants and azelaic acid at least 12 hours apart, such as glycolic acid cleanser in the morning and azelaic acid treatment at night.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is an antioxidant that can help lighten skin pigmentation similar to azelaic acid. However, vitamin C works best at a lower pH while azelaic acid needs a higher pH to work.

Use vitamin C and azelaic acid at different times of day and wait 15-20 minutes between application. Otherwise they will cancel each other out.

Niacinamide

Like vitamin C, niacinamide (vitamin B3) also helps minimize pigmentation and inflammation. But combining it with azelaic acid can convert the niacinamide to niacin, causing skin flushing.

Again, separate application times by at least 15-20 minutes to avoid any issues when using both these beneficial ingredients.

How to Use Azelaic Acid

When using azelaic acid in your skin care routine make sure to:

• Start slowly at first, every other day or twice a week before daily use
• Apply a moisturizer first to buffer if needed
• Use a mild cleanser and avoid other actives around the same time
• Apply a thin layer to clean, dry skin
• Use twice daily, morning and evening
• Follow with moisturizer and sunscreen in AM

Doing a patch test on a small area of skin first is also wise to check for any negative reactions before applying it to the face or using daily.

Complementary Ingredients

While certain ingredients should not be mixed with azelaic acid, other ingredients can complement it well. Some beneficial additions to an azelaic acid skin care routine include:

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid is a powerful humectant that attracts and binds moisture in the skin. It helps combat the drying effects of azelaic acid.

Ceramides

Ceramides are lipids that reinforce the skin barrier to lock in moisture and prevent water loss. They will offset azelaic acid's drying and peeling effects.

Glycerin

Like hylauronic acid, glycerin is a humectant that pulls water into the skin to keep it hydrated. Glycerin moisturizers can be used with azelaic acid.

Niacinamide

As mentioned, niacinamide shouldn't be combined with azelaic acid. But using a niacinamide serum in the morning and azelaic acid treatment at night works well for pigmentation.

Licorice Extract

Licorice extract has anti-inflammatory and skin soothing properties. It's gentle enough to pair with azelaic acid to calm any irritation it may cause.

Safety and Side Effects

When used properly, azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated. However, some people may experience side effects like:

• Redness
• Dryness
• Stinging or burning
• Peeling
• Itching

These side effects are often temporary as your skin adjusts and usually lessen within 1-2 weeks of use. Start by applying every other day before daily use.

Azelaic acid is pregnancy category B, meaning it is considered safe to use during pregnancy. However, always consult your doctor first.

While azelaic acid can make skin more sensitive to sunlight, it does not cause increased photosensitivity like retinoids or AHAs. Simply apply SPF in the AM when using azelaic acid.

When to Avoid Azelaic Acid

Those with very sensitive skin or allergies to azelaic acid, benzoic acid or ingredients like propylene glycol should avoid products containing this ingredient. Do a patch test first.

Discontinue use if you experience severe redness, peeling, itching or burning.

The Takeaway

Azelaic acid can be an effective ingredient for treating acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. While it is generally well-tolerated, it's important to avoid mixing it with potentially irritating or deactivating ingredients like retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, AHAs and BHAs. For best results, use azelaic acid alongside gentle, hydrating ingredients and separate application times from other actives. With careful use, azelaic acid can improve various inflammatory skin issues and lead to a clearer, more even complexion.

Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new treatment regimen.