Hydrogenated Oils: Are They Good or Bad for Skin?
With so many oils used in skincare and cosmetic products, it can get confusing to know which are healthy or harmful. Hydrogenated vegetable oils are common ingredients, but are often surrounded by controversy regarding their safety and effects.
This article will dive into what exactly hydrogenated oils are, how they impact skin health, and whether to avoid or limit their usage on skin.
What Are Hydrogenated Oils?
Hydrogenation is a process that adds hydrogen atoms to the chemical structure of unsaturated fats, like vegetable oils. This converts oils into semi-solid or solid fats at room temperature by raising the melting point.
Food manufacturers often hydrogenate vegetable oils to a) extend shelf life, and b) give texture for spreads, baked goods, snacks, etc. Common examples are hydrogenated palm, soybean, canola, and coconut oils.
The same hydrogenated oils also appear frequently in skincare, haircare, and cosmetic products as emulsifiers and stabilizers. This helps blend ingredients that normally separate, and gives products the desired thickness.
Why Are Hydrogenated Oils Controversial?
While converting oils allows more convenience and flexibility for manufacturers, hydrogenation also produces unnatural trans fats in the process. And research links trans fats consumption to multiple health issues like heart disease, inflammation, diabetes risk, and more.
So when it comes to ingesting hydrogenated oils, nutrition experts widely advise avoiding or limiting intake. But what about applying them to skin externally through beauty products?
Do Hydrogenated Oils Damage Skin?
Evidence on the direct effects of hydrogenated oils on skin is still fairly limited. However, some research raises questions about potential issues:
- May contribute to skin inflammation
- Linked to acne breakouts in those prone to acne
- Could theoretically accelerate skin aging over time
Additionally, some sources cite comedogenic ratings suggesting hydrogenated oils may clog pores for certain skin types. But these ratings can be imperfect when looking strictly at topical use.
Comedogenic Ratings Flaws
Comedogenic ratings classify ingredients from 0-5 based on pore clogging potential. While this sounds concerning, these systems have limitations:
- Based on animal studies using unrealistically high concentrations on skin
- Doesn’t account for finished product formulations that blend multiple ingredients
- Ignores how combination skin types only clog selectively
- Assumes comedogenic ratings translate equally from ingestion to topical use
So while an ingredient alone may show concerning in vitro comedogenic data, that doesn’t guarantee an increased likelihood of breakouts from final skincare products containing modest percentages.
Other Factors Influencing Skin Effects
When evaluating if hydrogenated oils are "bad" for your skin, it's complex:
- Concentration Used - High vs. low percentages make a difference
- Quality Processing - Higher quality hydrogenation may produce fewer trans fats
- Combination of Ingredients - Formulas work synergistically in final products
- Individual Skin Variability - Everyone's skin tolerances vary greatly
Signs Hydrogenated Oils Could Be An Issue For Your Skin
While more research is still needed, err on the side of caution if you experience any of the following:
- Acne breakouts or clogged pores from using products with hydrogenated oils
- Other negative skin reactions like redness, itching, stinging, etc
- Known sensitivity to fatty alcohols or other emollients that can have similar effects
Pay attention to your own skin's responses. If repeatedly using products with hydrogenated oils causes problems for you, avoiding them may be beneficial.
Healthiest Oils For Skin By Use
Rather than only avoiding potentially harmful oils, emphasizing healthier oils is wise too. Here are top options by use:
Cleaning Oils
- Coconut oil (antibacterial, hydrating fatty acids)
- Mineral oil (non-comedogenic, soothing)
- Safflower oil (non-comedogenic, linoleic acid to unclog pores)
Moisturizing Face Oils
- Jojoba oil (mimic skin’s sebum, antioxidant vitamin E)
- Rosehip seed oil (regenerative antioxidants and fatty acids)
- Marula oil (absorbs quickly, omega 6 & 9)
- Grapeseed oil (linoleic acid, vitamin E, light consistency)
Soothing Body Oils
- Apricot kernel oil (gamma linoleic acid to calm irritation)
- Avocado oil (deeply moisturizing vitamin E and omega 9)
- Sunflower oil (skin barrier support with vitamin E)
- Almond oil (lightweight, great for all skin types)
Pairing oils high in skin nourishing fatty acids, vitamins E and C, antioxidants and antimicrobial properties can balance any potential negatives of selective hydrogenated oil use.
Choosing the Best Beauty Products
When buying skincare, cosmetics and hair care, aim for products with:
- Simpler, recognizable ingredients
- Plant oils high in linoleic acid
- Skin barrier supporting ceramides
- Hydrating humectants like glycerin
- Soothing extracts like oats or green tea
And remember to patch test all new products before committing to prevent reactions!
Watch Out For These Red Flags
Avoid products with:
- Hydrogenated/partially hydrogenated oils high up on ingredients lists
- Many complicated chemical names
- Artificial fragrances (parfum)
- Alcohol denat or SD alcohol high up
- Harsh sulfates and cleansing agents
The Takeaway
The verdict is still out on whether hydrogenated oils are explicitly “bad” for skin health with topical use alone. But some precautions are wise for those prone to clogged pores or inflammation.
Limit use of products loaded with concerning ingredients. And counteract potential negatives by emphasizing antioxidant and skin nourishing oils instead.
Pay attention to your own skin’s responses to determine personal tolerances. An elimination diet approach works well for identifying cosmetic ingredients that cause issues.
With attentive product selection and listening to your skin’s signals, achieving healthy, glowing skin is possible even when utilizing some processed ingredient tradeoffs.
Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new treatment regimen.
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