Can You Mix Glycolic Acid and Niacinamide?
With so many effective skin care ingredients available, it's tempting to use multiple products at once for maximum benefits. However, some combinations can cause more harm than good. Two popular examples are glycolic acid and niacinamide.
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane. It is a chemical exfoliant that helps remove dead skin cells and improve skin texture and tone. Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that provides many benefits like reducing inflammation and minimizing pores.
While both glycolic acid and niacinamide have excellent properties on their own, using them together is not recommended. Keep reading to understand why you should avoid mixing glycolic acid and niacinamide.
How Glycolic Acid Works
Glycolic acid is a staple ingredient in many skin care regimens. As an AHA, it exfoliates by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface. This reveals newer, healthier looking skin underneath.
In addition to chemical exfoliation, benefits of glycolic acid include:
- Reducing acne and breakouts
- Minimizing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- Improving skin texture and radiance
- Fading hyperpigmentation and discoloration
- Clearing out congested and clogged pores
Glycolic acid is found in various concentrations in toners, serums, peels, cleansers and masks. Using products with 8-30% glycolic acid can lead to significant improvements in skin smoothness and glow.
Benefits of Niacinamide
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that offers many perks when applied topically. Some benefits of niacinamide include:
- Minimizing the appearance of pores
- Reducing inflammation and redness
- Controlling excess oil and sebum production
- Improving uneven skin tone
- Strengthening the skin barrier
- Decreasing moisture loss
Niacinamide is gentle enough for all skin types. It's found in concentrations of 2-10% in various gels, serums, lotions, and creams. Using niacinamide regularly can lead to a more even, balanced complexion.
Why Glycolic Acid and Niacinamide Don't Mix
Although glycolic acid and niacinamide work well separately, combining them can irritate your skin. Using them together causes a chemical reaction that renders both compounds less effective.
Niacinamide and Acids Form Niacin Salt
The main reason not to mix niacinamide and glycolic acid is that they form a compound called niacin salt. This occurs when the carboxyl acid group of glycolic acid interacts with the amide group of niacinamide.
Niacin salt has no beneficial properties for the skin. It will not provide the smoothing, glow-boosting effects of glycolic acid or the pore-minimizing, redness-reducing perks of niacinamide.
Essentially, combining the two neutralizes their advantages. Using them at the same time wastes your money and fails to improve your complexion.
Increased Risk of Irritation
In addition to inactivating the glycolic acid and niacinamide, attempting to use them together can cause significant skin irritation. Some people experience stinging, burning, redness, flaking, itching, and peeling when they apply the two ingredients at the same time.
Glycolic acid makes your skin more photosensitive. Simultaneously using niacinamide increases this sensitivity even more, putting you at higher risk for sun damage.
Layering glycolic acid and niacinamide back-to-back is risky due to the enhanced photosensitivity. Its best to avoid using both in the same routine.
Who Should Not Combine Glycolic Acid and Niacinamide
While no one should use glycolic acid and niacinamide together, some people are more prone to negative reactions and irritation. Avoid this combo especially if you have:
- Sensitive skin
- Eczema or rosacea
- Allergies or reactive skin
- Dry, dehydrated skin
- Inflammatory skin conditions like dermatitis
- Recently used retinol or benzoyl peroxide
Always introduce new skin care ingredients one at a time. Monitor your skin's response for several weeks before adding something new. This helps you identify potential irritants or problem products.
How to Combine Glycolic Acid and Niacinamide Safely
While using glycolic acid and niacinamide together is not recommended, you can incorporate both into your overall routine safely. Some tips include:
- Use glycolic acid and niacinamide in different parts of your routine - for example, cleanser with glycolic acid and serum with niacinamide.
- Leave plenty of time between applying each ingredient - at least 10-15 minutes.
- Alternate days using glycolic acid and niacinamide rather than layering daily.
- Opt for a lower concentration of glycolic acid around 5% to reduce irritation.
- Always apply SPF when using any chemical exfoliant like glycolic acid.
Pay attention to any stinging, itching, or discomfort when using both actives. Stop use immediately if your skin reacts poorly.
The Best Alternatives to Glycolic Acid and Niacinamide
Fortunately, plenty of alternative ingredients provide similar benefits to glycolic acid and niacinamide without the risk of irritation. Some great options include:
Lactic Acid
Like glycolic acid, lactic acid is an AHA that chemically exfoliates. However, it is larger and cannot penetrate as deeply, making it gentler on the skin. Those with sensitive skin often tolerate lactic acid better.
Mandelic Acid
Another gentler AHA choice is mandelic acid. Its larger molecules take longer to penetrate the skin, allowing for exfoliation with less irritation. Those prone to inflammation may find mandelic acid is better tolerated.
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid comes from willow bark and works well for oily, acne-prone skin types. It clears pores, reduces shine, and exfoliates inside the pore lining to prevent future breakouts.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C has potent antioxidant abilities to neutralize skin-damaging free radicals. It brightens discoloration and hyperpigmentation while smoothing fine lines and wrinkles.
Hyaluronic Acid
This molecule occurs naturally in the body to maintain moisture. Applied topically, it hydrates and plumps the skin to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and give a more youthful look.
Additional Skincare Ingredients That Should Not Be Mixed
Glycolic acid and niacinamide are not the only incompatible skin care combo. Below are some other ingredients you'll want to avoid using together:
Retinol and Acids
Combining retinol with AHAs and BHAs makes the skin much more sensitive to UV damage. Acids should not be layered with prescription retinoids like tretinoin either.
Benzoyl Peroxide and Acids
Benzoyl peroxide can oxidize AHA and BHA acids, rendering them ineffective. It also increases irritation. Use benzoyl peroxide and acids at different times of day.
Vitamin C and Niacinamide
While some dispute that L-ascorbic acid and niacinamide react, others find combining them causes redness and flushing. An excess of vitamin C may also convert niacinamide into niacin, which significantly irritates skin.
Peptides and Acids
Using peptides and acids like glycolic acid or salicylic acid together has the potential to break down the peptides, limiting their efficacy. Its best to alternate these ingredients.
How to Patch Test New Skin Care Products
Before trying new skin care active ingredients, its wise to do a patch test first. This helps you identify potential irritants or problem combinations.
Follow these steps to patch test properly:
- Wash and dry a small area of skin like the inside of your forearm or behind your ear.
- Apply a small amount of the new product to the area and let it dry.
- Do not wash the area for 24 hours. Reapply the product twice more during that time.
- If no irritation occurs after 24 hours, the product should be safe to use on your full face.
- Continue monitoring for any reactions like redness, burning, or itching for one week.
Patch testing is especially important when combining potent ingredients like acids and actives. It provides insight into what your skin can handle and tolerate.
The Takeaway
Glycolic acid and niacinamide offer stellar skin improving properties. However, research clearly shows they should not be used together due to decreased efficacy and increased risk of irritation. Fortunately, alternatives like mandelic acid, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid provide similar perks without the drawbacks.
Always patch test new products and pay attention to how your skin reacts. Avoid mixing incompatible ingredients by using them in separate routines spaced well apart. This allows you to reap the full benefits of glycolic acid, niacinamide, and other actives safely.
FAQs
Does glycolic acid cancel out niacinamide?
Older research raised concerns that mixing glycolic acid and niacinamide renders the niacinamide ineffective. However, newer studies have challenged this view when the ingredients are formulated at the proper pH of 5.5 or above.
Can I use glycolic acid and niacinamide together at night?
You can apply glycolic acid and niacinamide together at night if your skin tolerates it. However, it is generally recommended to use them separately - glycolic acid at night and niacinamide in the morning - to minimize irritation.
What happens if you mix glycolic acid and niacinamide?
When mixed directly, glycolic acid may partially convert niacinamide into niacin. This can cause redness, flushing and irritation in some people. However, many tolerate the ingredients well when applied separately.
Should I use glycolic acid or niacinamide first?
Most experts recommend applying glycolic acid first to maximize its exfoliating effects. Follow with niacinamide after the glycolic acid has absorbed fully into the skin.
Can Vitamin C be mixed with glycolic acid and niacinamide?
No, vitamin C is unstable at the higher pH needed for glycolic acid and niacinamide. It is best not to combine all three ingredients due to increased risk of irritation.
Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult with a healthcare professional before starting any new treatment regimen.
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